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Routes in Jimmywood

38 Special S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arete Butler S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Mountain Picnic S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diamond Cutter S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Earflaps S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Puppets S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flim Flam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
La Pistola S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mammy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Miss Prissy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Miss Scarlet S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ruben S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saturated S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Saved By Zeroes T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snake Charmer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Story of My Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Supersaturated S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
That Orange Hat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wedgie S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wet Willie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
You can't email your way into heaven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Craig Estes and Paul Sloan, 1992
Page Views: 1,033 total, 9/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Aug 18, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Mellow face climbing leads to big holds going out the overhang. Things get interesting around the end of the overhang. Continue up the face above to anchors.

Location

Jimmywood. Start up the approach trail to Bear Mountain Picnic, but continue going uphill to a short wall on the right. The route begins in a corner capped by overhanging rock. Look for the bolt line starting on the left face of the corner.

Protection

6 bolts, anchors

Photos

Great climb.

5.6 slab climbing, leads to easier, but pumpy 5.9/5.10 roof (the roof probably sticks out 10-12 ft. The couple moves pulling the roof were definitely the crux for me, especially after being pumped from the roof. The last 8-10 feet were mellow with lots of jugs.

As of March 2017, bottom 4 bolts were rusty. Fell on one bolt and it worked fine. Mar 18, 2017
Swamp Cookie
da Bayou
  5.11a
Swamp Cookie   da Bayou
  5.11a
Great route. Short but sweet. Jun 5, 2012
willeslinger
Golden, Colorado
willeslinger   Golden, Colorado
Gave this sucker a try yesterday. The fist three bolts are really fun and pretty exposed, but the roof is KILLER. I couldn't get up and over it onsight, I'll go back and redpoint it sooner or later.

Be warned though, you have to use a loooooong runner on the first bolt if you want a to have any slack for clipping once you reach the roof, but, this pretty much makes the first bolt useless. Don't fall until you reach the second bolt if you can help it, have some spotters ready just in case too. It's a rough walk out with two working legs, it'd be hell with some broken bones. Aug 30, 2010