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Routes in Jimmywood

38 Special S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arete Butler S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Mountain Picnic S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diamond Cutter S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Earflaps S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Puppets S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flim Flam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
La Pistola S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mammy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Miss Prissy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Miss Scarlet S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ruben S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saturated S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Saved By Zeroes T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snake Charmer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Story of My Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Supersaturated S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
That Orange Hat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wedgie S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wet Willie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
You can't email your way into heaven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Paul Sloan - 1992
Page Views: 9,094 total, 69/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Mar 19, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


155 Opinions

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Description

One of the more aesthetic and exposed routes at Foster Falls, Bear Mountain Picnic is fairly stiff for the grade. Try to find someone with a camera to go up the hill and get a picture of you profiled against the sky as you lead the arete!

Starting on the ledge below a roof, stem off of boulders until you can clip the first bolt, then pull the overhang and make delicate moves out right to a ledge. From here, follow the pretty and slightly overhanging arete on good holds to the top.

Location

Jimmywood section; starts on a wide ledge above the trail, about 10' left of .38 Special.

Protection

6 bolts, bolted anchors.
Margaret Murphy
  5.8+ PG13
Margaret Murphy  
  5.8+ PG13
Pretty sketchy for a 5.8+. Maybe with some better beta it could have been a fun route. Great view though. Wish I'd climbed it in fall. Jan 16, 2017
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.8
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.8
Foster Fall's only top-rope route.

To get to the top anchors- Take the trail up the right, there are a couple access scrambles to the top on your left. I had come here with some friends, one of whom is new to climbing. We had a great time on this. You can skip the boulder-y start by going up the ledge on the right. Jun 17, 2015
This is a great exposed arete but the bolt placement is poor - evaluate it carefully before leading as there multiple places a fall results in decking. Could have been protected much more safely than it is without 'over bolting.'

Caution new leaders - don't let the '8' be your only consideration when looking at this route. I have a friend who was with an '11' leader that took a fall here and broke either one or both ankles. Mar 23, 2015
Bradley Mark Edwards
Grand Junction, CO
Bradley Mark Edwards   Grand Junction, CO  
This was one of my first leads and I think really set me up to do other stuff that had some exposure. Super classic. Jul 8, 2012
CraigS.
 
CraigS.  
 
Tough for the beginning leader that I am. Did some other 5.9's that felt better than this. Good holds are there, just takes time to find. Get's hot up top! May 25, 2012
Jason Watts
Boulder,CO
5.9-
Jason Watts   Boulder,CO
5.9-
scared the piss outta me when i first climbed it. Could climb 9, but had never done anything this "bold". I will always remember the move out from under the roof. great climb for anyone serious about the sport. Dec 13, 2011
Andrew R.
Linden, VA
  5.9
Andrew R.   Linden, VA
  5.9
Harder than 5.8 IMHO, and novice leaders should expect this not to be an easy "picnic" that being said good warm up. All but beginning of route is in shade. Makes it a bit cold for winter mornings. Dec 21, 2010
Chad Burdyshaw
Signal Mountain TN
  5.8+
Chad Burdyshaw   Signal Mountain TN
  5.8+
Fun climb! I agree the start can be a little challenging for beginners, but can be easily bypassed by approaching route from the right. Also the belay ledge is a small rock platform about 30' up from the trail so you might want to anchor your belayer to one of the nearby trees.

Aug 26, 2010
jaredmartin35
  5.8+
jaredmartin35  
  5.8+
i did this climb for a warm up and loved it. i climbed it 3 times after that. i got the profile against the sky picture as well. usually routes at that grade aren't alot of fun, they're just good warm ups, but this one is definitely worth doing no matter what you climb. you'll probably want an experienced belayer if you plan on leading and don't know if you can make it. my friend fell and i caught him, but i had to make sure he had enough slack not to smack his head on the roof but not so much that he hit the ground. i think i got lucky he swung right under the roof and no problems or accidents. (whew) Aug 5, 2010
willeslinger
Golden, Colorado
  5.9-
willeslinger   Golden, Colorado
  5.9-
Great climb up an interesting rock formation with one of the those great views up top that only climbers can see... man.

I would suggest a crash for summer climbing. The first bit of climbing is really slippery when you're sweating, and the rock down below is nasty (not to mention the fall someone spotting you stands to take if you hit them too hard) Jul 25, 2010
Sumbit
My house
  5.8+
Sumbit   My house
  5.8+
Really fun exposeed arete. Bolts were okay, don't know if there would be a better way to bolt it, have to take what the rock gives us. An 11 leader will have a blast on this, an 8/9 leader will shake a little but the holds are all there, just exposed. Nov 26, 2009
grizz Burton  
 
The initial move is definitely hard for 5.8. I also found a few of the bolt placements to be less than ideal with potential falls on to ledges and such. The exposure of the arete is quite thrilling. A lot of rope drag if you do not use some long draws in places as I remember. Apr 6, 2008