Community Service
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Chris Barton, Andy Bishop- June 2018 |
Page Views: | 1,160 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Chris Barton on Jun 20, 2018 |
Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Daily online climbing registration required for TN State Park areas. tnstateparks.com/activities…. This includes Cumberland Trail State Park (Deep Creek, Big Soddy, Buzzard Point, Laurel Falls, Dayton Pocket, Black Mountain and other areas within the park); South Cumberland State Park (Foster Falls and Denny Cove); Fall Creek Falls State Park; and Rocky Fork State Park Once you have registered, you will receive a confirmation email with your unique registration number, site rules, and other helpful info. Please keep the registration number with you while climbing. At some locations, you may be asked to leave a piece of paper with your registration number on your car dashboard. Groups of 10 or more, please call the park prior to filling out a registration.
Description
P1: climb a nice, vertical crack system to a ledge, 5.7, 40 ft. Belay in corner from finger sized horizontals.
P2: climb up corner, using some funky movement to get that extra reach to the glorious chicken heads. Trend left around mossy slopers to a chossy ledge (don't even breathe on some of these holds, super loose). I went right to avoid knocking any chunks down and belayed from a tree (slings and biners left behind). 5.9, 55 ft.
P3: head left from belay to a slightly overhanging hand crack. Venture right to some small trees then pull the roof on sharp holds. Belay from tree up and right (slings and biners left behind). 5.9, 55 ft.
P1 and 2 can be linked together if you're smart with runners and have an attentive belay for moving off the ledge. Harder moves, not that great of gear, and the ledge make for a potentially bad fall- that's why I would bring your belayer up to the ledge for less rope in the system.
I have applied to bolt the route, but plan to only bolt pitch one and two because of choss city on pitch 3. Eventually it will be a good, moderate two-pitch route for the area.
P2: climb up corner, using some funky movement to get that extra reach to the glorious chicken heads. Trend left around mossy slopers to a chossy ledge (don't even breathe on some of these holds, super loose). I went right to avoid knocking any chunks down and belayed from a tree (slings and biners left behind). 5.9, 55 ft.
P3: head left from belay to a slightly overhanging hand crack. Venture right to some small trees then pull the roof on sharp holds. Belay from tree up and right (slings and biners left behind). 5.9, 55 ft.
P1 and 2 can be linked together if you're smart with runners and have an attentive belay for moving off the ledge. Harder moves, not that great of gear, and the ledge make for a potentially bad fall- that's why I would bring your belayer up to the ledge for less rope in the system.
I have applied to bolt the route, but plan to only bolt pitch one and two because of choss city on pitch 3. Eventually it will be a good, moderate two-pitch route for the area.
0 Comments