Type: Trad, 150 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Chris Barton, Andy Bishop- June 2018
Page Views: 110 total · 19/month
Shared By: Chris Barton on Jun 20, 2018
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

P1: climb a nice, vertical crack system to a ledge, 5.7, 40 ft. Belay in corner from finger sized horizontals.

P2: climb up corner, using some funky movement to get that extra reach to the glorious chicken heads. Trend left around mossy slopers to a chossy ledge (don't even breathe on some of these holds, super loose). I went right to avoid knocking any chunks down and belayed from a tree (slings and biners left behind). 5.9, 55 ft.

P3: head left from belay to a slightly overhanging hand crack. Venture right to some small trees then pull the roof on sharp holds. Belay from tree up and right (slings and biners left behind). 5.9, 55 ft.

P1 and 2 can be linked together if you're smart with runners and have an attentive belay for moving off the ledge. Harder moves, not that great of gear, and the ledge make for a potentially bad fall- that's why I would bring your belayer up to the ledge for less rope in the system.

I have applied to bolt the route, but plan to only bolt pitch one and two because of choss city on pitch 3. Eventually it will be a good, moderate two-pitch route for the area.

Location

Coming from access #1, headed towards Jimmywood, about 20 feet from the bottom of the stairs. 

Protection

Standard rack (I placed one #3), lots of slings. Slings at Pitch 2 and 3, with double biners for rappel.

Photos

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