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Routes in Jimmywood

38 Special S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arete Butler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bear Mountain Picnic S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Community Service T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Diamond Cutter S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Earflaps S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Puppets S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flim Flam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
La Pistola S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mammy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Miss Prissy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Miss Scarlet S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ruben S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saturated S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Saved By Zeroes T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snake Charmer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Story of My Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Supersaturated S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
That Orange Hat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wedgie S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wet Willie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
You can't email your way into heaven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 150 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Chris Barton, Andy Bishop- June 2018
Page Views: 58 total · 31/month
Shared By: Chris Barton on Jun 20, 2018
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

P1: climb a nice, vertical crack system to a ledge, 5.7, 40 ft. Belay in corner from finger sized horizontals.

P2: climb up corner, using some funky movement to get that extra reach to the glorious chicken heads. Trend left around mossy slopers to a chossy ledge (don't even breathe on some of these holds, super loose). I went right to avoid knocking any chunks down and belayed from a tree (slings and biners left behind). 5.9, 55 ft.

P3: head left from belay to a slightly overhanging hand crack. Venture right to some small trees then pull the roof on sharp holds. Belay from tree up and right (slings and biners left behind). 5.9, 55 ft.

P1 and 2 can be linked together if you're smart with runners and have an attentive belay for moving off the ledge. Harder moves, not that great of gear, and the ledge make for a potentially bad fall- that's why I would bring your belayer up to the ledge for less rope in the system.

I have applied to bolt the route, but plan to only bolt pitch one and two because of choss city on pitch 3. Eventually it will be a good, moderate two-pitch route for the area.

Location

Coming from access #1, headed towards Jimmywood, about 20 feet from the bottom of the stairs. 

Protection

Standard rack (I placed one #3), lots of slings. Slings at Pitch 2 and 3, with double biners for rappel.

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