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Saturated
5.8,
Sport, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 3.2 from 337
votes
FA: Mike Moore and Darryl Bornhop 2012
Tennessee
> Foster Falls
> 08. Jimmywood
Access Issue: Daily online climbing registration required for TN State Park areas
Details
Daily online climbing registration required for TN State Park areas. tnstateparks.com/activities…. This includes Cumberland Trail State Park (Deep Creek, Big Soddy, Buzzard Point, Laurel Falls, Dayton Pocket, Black Mountain and other areas within the park); South Cumberland State Park (Foster Falls and Denny Cove); Fall Creek Falls State Park; and Rocky Fork State Park Once you have registered, you will receive a confirmation email with your unique registration number, site rules, and other helpful info. Please keep the registration number with you while climbing. At some locations, you may be asked to leave a piece of paper with your registration number on your car dashboard. Groups of 10 or more, please call the park prior to filling out a registration.
Description
This is a long and fun jug-haul that is really well protected. There are a LOT of bolts. It's possible many climbers of the grade won't have enough draws, but if you are a 5.8-5.9 climber this is not to be missed. Easy climbing to the little roof and then things get more interesting from there. If you are more experienced, you can easily downclimb a couple moves and grab your draws from below you when the bolt spacing is close together so as to have enough draws to protect the whole thing.
Location
This is a new 5.8 line toward the left end of the Jimmywood area, between Flim Flam and Finger Puppets. It's one of the tallest routes for the grade and is a fun gym-like jug haul. Starts on a slab below a tree on a ledge above the trail and goes up into a roof.
Protection
12 bolts, bolted anchors. Full rope length is needed. You can scramble up the little slab and belay from the ledge if you have chopped your rope at all.
[Hide Photo] Sunday Saturated sends (Saturated is the route being climbed in the right - dark red shirt. Ruben is the climb on the left - pink shirt).
[Hide Photo] Leading saturated. The small roof feels like the crux. Nothing is that overtly hard, it's just fairly sustained. There's a good rest below the roof, and one just after. Commitment is key for the ne…
[Hide Photo] Bottom of the route is on this little shelf by the tree.
[Hide Photo] Rope showing the route. Lots of rope drag if you use 12 cm quick draws.
[Hide Photo] Happy days pretending to be a golfer with a purple quick draw.
[Hide Photo] The rope is going up the line of this 5.8!
[Hide Photo] I was a few quick draws short so I put together some alpine draws with what I had and it helped with rope drag quite well
[Hide Comment] Chatt steel says "destined to become a popular moderate." This is true as it is one of few routes below 5.9 at Foster and has generally enjoyable climbing. That being said, the couple of detractors are the number of bolts/placements and the number of features that are loose or flexing and prime to be ripped off. Particularly when lowering down the route, I encountered several loose features that I was worried about dropping on those below. Wear a helmet, bring some 24" slings to clip the odd bolts so rope drag doesn't get heinous.
Apr 6, 2014
[Hide Comment] Mostly good, but not "great". Pulling the small roof and the rest of the line to the anchors make up for the less than stellar rock below.
Mar 20, 2017
[Hide Comment] A real jug haul. Choosing what to hold is a struggle. Rope drag is real - extend draws or skip bolts. The crux at the roof/arete isn't bad, the holds are just shit compared to what you've been holding on. Lots of x'd rocks. If this was shorter it'd be 5.7.
Mar 22, 2019
[Hide Comment] This route is way, way better than the other .8’s at Foster Falls. Also, there aren’t too many bolts, the bolts aren’t even that close together. Believing that “too many bolts” detracts from a climb is ridiculous - go climb trad, or bolt your own routes - it’s a 5.8, it should be bolted for a 5.8 leader.
Apr 10, 2023
[Hide Comment] The rope drag was pretty ridiculous, use an alpine draw potentially. A few small rocks under the roof had a hollow feeling so I avoided them.
Sep 11, 2023
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