Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Paul Sloan - 1992
Page Views: 2,019 total · 14/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Mar 19, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

Unless you're doing the 11a variation (strictly climbing the arete and face), the name is a little misleading; Arete Butler is more of a stemming chimney climb. An interesting and exposed climb that can be done as a sort of second pitch to Mammy; or, if you have a 70-meter rope, can be done as one long pitch from ground level.

Starting on Mammy or one of its neighboring routes, topout on the ledge and move up to a two-bolt belay anchor on the wall. Climb the orange arete, stemming or chimneying to the wall on the right, with awkward moves to clip the bolts on the face. After reaching the final bolt, move out left and finish on the overhanging face to the anchors.

As noted above, the 5.11a variation is to climb the arete without stemming/chimneying the opposite wall.

Location

Jimmywood section; starts on the ledge directly above Mammy.

Protection

5-6 bolts, bolted anchors.

Photos

Chad Burdyshaw
Signal Mountain TN
 
Chad Burdyshaw   Signal Mountain TN
 
There is currently a very active bee's nest about a foot below the anchor bolts. I left a bail biner there on the anchor chain yesterday to facilitate a speedy retreat. May be prudent to wait till mid winter to revisit this route. May 29, 2012
kyle howe
Knoxville, TN
 
kyle howe   Knoxville, TN
 
Climbed on 9/14, no bees to be seen around anchors. Above Mammy's anchors, climb loose juggy rock for about 30' to belay anchors for Arete Butler. Sep 2, 2013