Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Paul Sloan - 1992 |
Page Views: | 3,466 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | saxfiend on Mar 19, 2007 |
Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
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Daily online climbing registration required for TN State Park areas. tnstateparks.com/activities…. This includes Cumberland Trail State Park (Deep Creek, Big Soddy, Buzzard Point, Laurel Falls, Dayton Pocket, Black Mountain and other areas within the park); South Cumberland State Park (Foster Falls and Denny Cove); Fall Creek Falls State Park; and Rocky Fork State Park Once you have registered, you will receive a confirmation email with your unique registration number, site rules, and other helpful info. Please keep the registration number with you while climbing. At some locations, you may be asked to leave a piece of paper with your registration number on your car dashboard. Groups of 10 or more, please call the park prior to filling out a registration.
Description
Unless you're doing the 11a variation (strictly climbing the arete and face), the name is a little misleading; Arete Butler is more of a stemming chimney climb. An interesting and exposed climb that can be done as a sort of second pitch to Mammy; or, if you have a 70-meter rope, can be done as one long pitch from ground level.
Starting on Mammy or one of its neighboring routes, topout on the ledge and move up to a two-bolt belay anchor on the wall. Climb the orange arete, stemming or chimneying to the wall on the right, with awkward moves to clip the bolts on the face. After reaching the final bolt, move out left and finish on the overhanging face to the anchors.
As noted above, the 5.11a variation is to climb the arete without stemming/chimneying the opposite wall.
Starting on Mammy or one of its neighboring routes, topout on the ledge and move up to a two-bolt belay anchor on the wall. Climb the orange arete, stemming or chimneying to the wall on the right, with awkward moves to clip the bolts on the face. After reaching the final bolt, move out left and finish on the overhanging face to the anchors.
As noted above, the 5.11a variation is to climb the arete without stemming/chimneying the opposite wall.
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