Type: Trad, 900 ft, 8 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,784 total · 28/month
Shared By: Gargano on Nov 11, 2013
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


Tooth or Consequences takes an obvious, but little-known line up a major arete that divides Jet Stream Wall and Challenger Wall. The route has an alpine feels as it follows varied terrain, while climbing through short well-protected cruxes on mostly high-quality rock. The final pitch summits the unique tooth feature capping the route. Fun, varied climbing to a cool summit in an off-the-beaten-path area of the park.

P1: Balancy moves pull around the roof on the left. Trend right through lower angle crack systems to the base of a small roof in the varnished wall. Move up into the red rock flare/pod and belay at a fixed anchor. 5.10. 35m.

P2: Follow the crack through soft red rock onto a varnished face of plates. Awesome climbing on bullet rock leads to a big rocky ledge. Belay at a fixed anchor. 5.8. 35m.

Move the belay 100' to the base of a white rock arete.

P3: Climb the left-side of the arete through intermittent cracks and edges to a fixed belay at a stance below a varnished face. Loose rock. 5.8. 35m.

P4: Broken cracks lead to the base of a varnished face. Thin edges and dimples meander through varnished slab. Fixed belay in a scoop below a mini-roof. Delicate movement on great rock. 5.10-. 35m.

P5: Move left off the belay and climb up to the base of a vegetated corner system. Choose your own adventure through the low-angle corners and shrubbery. 5.8. 35m.

There are three fixed stations on the ledge system at the top of P5. The rightmost is equipped with rings - this is the rap station you will use on the descent. The middle station is located on the left side of a large white block - use this to bring up your partner. The leftmost station is located on a small ledge below the middle belay - it is a good place to belay for the next pitch, but would create serious drag. Either move the belay left or belay off the middle station for P6.

P6: Begin up good edges on a short wall left of the belay. Once on the ledge above, move right around a boulder and back left to the base of a finger crack in a white dihedral. Climb up into the crack, clip a bolt on the steep white wall, and pull around the left side of the arete onto a featured face. Follow this face to a stance and a fixed belay. 5.10-. 35m.

P7: Climb up the sea of edges to a slanting ledge below the base of the tooth. Fixed belay. Classic Red Rock face climbing. Beware of a 3'x2'x1' loose block on the arete about halfway through the pitch. The path of least resistance climbs straight through this block, and if released it would likely clean out the belay below. 5.10. 35m.

P8: The Tooth! Pedal up a thin varnished slab to a stance at the base of the arete. A short bouldery crux turns the arete. Fun face climbing leads to a fixed belay on the summit. Keep a sharp eye on the leader through the crux moves - while well-protected, slack in the system could put the leader back on the slab. 5.11. 35m.


The route is located on the west side of Jet Stream Wall, between the main Jet Stream area and the Challenger Wall.

Approach as for the Challenger Wall. Park at Pine Creek Canyon and follow the south fork of Pine Creek around Mescalito. Boulder hop through the drainage until the creek forks - this is just past the Challenger Wall. Cut up and left on a trail that leads past Adventure Punks. Stay low avoiding the Challenger Wall. At this point you should be able to look up and see the tooth. Follow slabs to the base of the route.

The route begins at a right-facing scoop/roof just left of a lone pine tree. Bolts lead up the left side of the roof. This is the start of P1.


Rap the route. All pitches are ~35m, which makes for a easy descent with one 70m rope. Some of the raps are rope-stretchers so be mindful of rope ends.

For the rap at the top of P5 (ledge with multiple stations mentioned above) use the right-most station - the only station of the three that is equipped with rap rings.


Single rack to 2.5". Most pitches are equipped with one or more bolts. 12+ draws/slings.

All belays are fixed.
Darren in Vegas
Las Vegas, NV
Darren in Vegas   Las Vegas, NV
I thought this was a pretty fun route. Once it gets more traffic to clean it up a bit, it will be awesome. Nov 13, 2013
Xavier Wasiak
Las Vegas, NV
Xavier Wasiak   Las Vegas, NV
Fun! :) You may want to consider leaving the heavier gear at the anchors for pitches 7 & 8 depending on your preferences. Some run-outs but nothing toooo serious. Oct 10, 2015
Great route! One thing to note: Getting to the second bolt on pitch 7 is committing, as a fall near the bolt would surely land you on your belayer. Climb carefully through the edges, and enjoy the exposure.

Also, the death block on pitch 7 comes quite sooner than halfway up the pitch. It's located about 10 feet above and slightly to the left of the second bolt. Oct 11, 2015
Jared Spaulding
Central WY
Jared Spaulding   Central WY
The death block on pitch seven seems to have taken leave of its place. Also, be prepared for homemade rappel rings and newer quarter inch bolts (many are stamped with a "C") All told though...pretty fun climbing. Oct 23, 2016
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a PG13
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a PG13
This is a very alpine route not to be taken lightly, despite all the bolts. If you've done alot in the park and are looking for an adventure with views that are tough to beat, this is a good choice. If you're looking for a long, hidden classic in Red Rock, this isn't it, at least not yet. It has potential if it gets *alot* more traffic.

Notes on the bolts/anchors:
1) Every bolt is 1/4" x 2 1/2" and all the anchors hangers have a single link on them (the hangers are turned sideways so it won't twist your rope).

2) This route *really* needs to be rebolted with 3/8" hardware and links/rings for all the anchors (except the summit, which needs chains)- the 1/4" hardware is already starting to rust.

Notes on the climb:

The rock quality on pitches 3, 6, 7, and 8 has alot to be desired, although 6-8 will clean up with a good bit of traffic. Unfortunately, pitch 3 will not- luckily, it's easy. Pull down, not out is the name of the game on this climb.

Strong Parties with extra draws can link pitches 1&2, 3&4, and 6&7 and avoid all but 1 hanging belay. Maybe bring doubles in 0.4-0.75 camalot if you plan to do this.

Pitch 1- 35m, 5.10a- Pretty straightforward, not too hard if you're tall. Keep an eye out after the 5th bolt for another bolt out right in the varnish.

Pitch 2- 35m, 5.8- Straight up the crack, then trend right to a bolt, then up and right to the anchor.

Pitch 3- 30m, 5.8- Chossy arete. Step VERY lightly on this one. 30m if you move the belay, which you do not need to do if you're careful where you step on the way up.

Pitch 4- 35m, 5.10a- Really nice climbing, straight up the slab, then trend left, following bolts to the anchor.

Pitch 5- 42-45m, 5.8- The description gets this one way wrong, unfortunately. From the anchor, *traverse left* along the horizontal crack to another anchor, then keep going left around the corner, then up to a bolt. From here, straight up, passing another bolt, then to a crack which leads to a ledge. This lands you at the middle anchor on the big ledge. You can clip a long sling to this, then step down to the left anchor for the next pitch. (Don't worry about the rope length- you rap straight down from 30' over- the rap is 32m).

Pitch 6- 25m, 5.10a- A wild pitch. Thankfully, the hardest moves are bolt protected. If you sling the pro below and the two bolts long, this pitch is easily linked with the next.

Pitch 7- 30m, 5.10 - This pitch would be standard Red Rock face climbing if the rock were good. Instead, its an adventure in guessing which holds are solid for 30m. The run to the first bolt and the run to the second is what gives this route a PG13 for me- be solid at the grade for this one. Primarily bolt protected except for three or four pieces of gear.

Pitch 8- 35m, 5.11a - Well described above- the crux is easily aided (I did it)- but if you're really short, it might be pretty tough. The good news is if you can get here, you can likely free it. I had jitters from the rock quality and the tiny bolts, but its not that bad. There are two anchors on top of the tooth- belay at the one in the middle of the summit. The rap anchor is on the right edge. Rock quality on this one is the same as Pitch 7- iffy, except getting to the crux and the crux itself, which is good.


I would highly recommend coming up via the Challenger approach- its much faster and as Josh notes on the main Jet Stream page, there's no unnecessary elevation gain/loss. There's also no exposed 4th class and low 5th classing as there is on the Jet Stream approach. The base of Tooth is immediately above Challenger- which means its 500' below where the Jet Stream approach comes in.

If you get done early and you've never been up to the area before, the Jet Stream trail up and then down the Olive Oil gully will get you closer views of the crown jewels of the area- Drifting and Jet Stream, and the views along the ridge are great. If not, though, go back the way you came- the views that way are pretty great too. Apr 23, 2017
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
I enjoyed the route due to the remote location and easy cruising up an isolated section of rock. I don't think it offers the quality seen in many other routes in the park including routes above and below this route. I kind of thought the first 30 feet was the crux. The upper crux on the last pitch is just a few side pulls with great feet to huge jugs and a clip - 5.10ish, not 5.11 I think. We linked 1/2, 3/4, and 6/7 with 60 meter twin lines no problem. All the bolts are 1/4 inch including the belays and the belays have cheezy bendable links on them. We left biners behind on all the belays but I suspect they will get nicked - so bring some chain and rapid links to improve the descent safety. Jun 16, 2017
Denver, CO
sab160   Denver, CO
A climb worth doing. A few great pitches and a few ones with terrible rock but a fun experience overall.
The carabiners Tom Wolfe left are still there, thanks for leaving those to make the raps a little safer!
I found the crux to be in the high 10s, and the other pitches to be a little soft too, but I do have the tall girl (6ft) beta. Apr 22, 2018