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Routes in Jet Stream Wall

20% T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Airhead T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Atmospheres T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Cold Front T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Drifting T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Jet Stream T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Tooth or Consequences T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,403 total, 20/month
Shared By: j wharton on Apr 17, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Atmospheres is another fantastic route. Although maybe not quite as good as Jet Stream, it's damn close, and seemed a touch harder.

Don't miss this route! There should be lines for all the climbs on this wall! Even if you climb 5.14 regularly, onsighting this route would be an incredible achievment. Depending on your strengths or weaknesses Pitch 2, 3, or 4 could prove to be the crux.

P1: The only poor pitch on the route. 80' of okay .10 is over quickly.

P2: Fading left facing dihedral, which becomes desperate higher up. Then a tricky boulder problem over a roof leads to easier climbing. Above the roof a medium wire, and small-ish offset protect some heady 5.11 face climbing, which at first seems horrifying but proves quite reasonable. 90'

P3: Really fun 5.11 for 40' to a nice rest below the crux. Very tricky, and committing V7-ish boulder problem above #1 and #2 BD stoppers lead to more cool, wandering .11+, and a great ledge. 110'

P4: Techy face climbing for 25' leads to enjoyable .10+ climbing to the anchors. 140'

If you lower twice on the last pitch (leaving a biner or two) you can rap the route with a 70m.

Location

Handren's guide gives excellent beta for the approach, etc.

Protection

single set of cams from #000 C3 to a #1 camalot. maybe an extra #00 and #0
a set of wires and offset rps
be sure to bring a #1 and #2 BD stopper (they fit better then offsets--weird)for the P3 crux

Photos

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Josh Janes

  5.13a PG13
Josh Janes    
  5.13a PG13
There are two fixed lines: the first is pulled away from the wall and secured to the anchor atop the first pitch. It does not interfere with the climbing at all. The second fixed line runs from the anchor atop the first pitch, through several directionals, all the way to the anchor atop the third pitch.

If you are tackling this route ground-up, the first line won't be in your way at all. It should be very easy to keep the second line out of your way as long as you unclip it from below as you go. If you plan to pre-inspect the route, either from above or below, hopefully the lines will be useful. Secure them again when you're done: They are kept tight to prevent wear from the high winds that are common on this wall.

Feel free to contact me if you have any questions or concerns. Sep 30, 2017
harrison t
Black Hills, SD
harrison t   Black Hills, SD
Pretty lame move by whoever has fixed ropes all over this route. Mar 15, 2017