Avg: 4 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 650 ft, 6 pitches|
|Page Views:||6,261 total · 65/month|
|Shared By:||J. Thompson on Mar 22, 2010|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis is a very classic, Hard route. It offers some of the best rock in Red Rock. The moves are not easy but the climbing is brilliant.
Pitch 1: Start up dirty corners and climb up to a little ledge with a small tree. Protection through this section is scarce. Climb left off the small ledge following the obvious cracks to a nice little belay ledge with 2 bolts. 5.10a, R. 110ft.
Pitch 2: Climb the awesome steep varnished wall above the belay. Climb past 4 bolts. This is a unique and cryptic bit of climbing. continue up a seam above the last bolt, get some good gear here. Begin climbing a rising traverse up and left, passing a bolt, until you are under a rap anchor. Step around the corner to the left and belay on a nice ledge off of a separate belay anchor (2bolts). Rated 5.12c originally but seems much harder. 90ft.
Pitch 3: climb the obvious corner directly above the belay passing 3 bolts. Shortly after the 3 rd bolt step out right onto the arete and climb up the face. You will need to step back at some point to place gear in the crack. continue up the face passing 1 more bolt and belay on an excellent ledge(2 bolts). 5.12a, 110ft.
Pitch 4: Yes you get to climb that sick varnished corner above the belay! climb up into the corner. getting established above the small roof is very difficult and requires some very unique stemming moves. Continue climbing the awesome varnish finger crack until you can step to a small ledge on the right and belay (2bolts). This pitch was rated 5.12b originally, but seems much harder. 100ft.
Pitch 5: Step back left and climb the crack that has now become low angle. Continue until you can clip a rappel anchor the traverse up and left to a nice ledge and belay at 2 bolts. Originally 5.11a, but seems easier.
Pitch 6: Climb up under the roof and clip a bolt. Do some unique moves to get out from under the roof and continue up the corner to a good rest stance. Climb up and right past 2 bolts. Step around the corner(big air)and climb the crack arching to the right. Step back left and belay at 2 good bolts. 5.12a, 80ft
To descend Rappel with 1 70M rope. Using the 2 rap anchors you passed on the way up.