Type: Trad, 480 ft (145 m), 5 pitches
FA: FA: Unknown.FFA: Joshua Janes & David Allfrey - Spring, 2013
Page Views: 3,622 total · 37/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on May 1, 2013
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Cold Front is a great new line (2-3 stars) that tackles the natural weakness - the attractive corner system - that divides the Jet Stream Wall in half (with Jet Stream and Atmospheres to the left and Drifting to the right). There are two amazing 5.10+/5.11- corner pitches that are linked together by a short 5.12 pitch that can easily be aided yielding a fun outing at an easier grade, but if you're up for the challenge the boulder problem crux is excellent as well. The only detractors are a short, dirty pitch off the ground and a bit of hollow rock on one section up higher.

Begin off the beautiful, polished rock terrace in the center of the wall, pleasantly verandaed by a large, solitary fir tree.

P1 (5.8, 80'): The "Flowers" Pitch. Climb up a lichen-covered slab to a short finger crack just right of the gully system beneath the central corner. From the finger crack, bushwhack leftwards across the top of the gully to a belay out left at a good stance. Bushy, but pleasingly fragrant.

P2 (5.10, 120'): Climb the corner. An awkward but fun start leads to exceptional climbing punctuated with great rests. Belay at a cramped stance below the steeper wall above.

P3 (5.12b, 50'): The boulder problem crux, follow face holds up a steepening wall to a good rest beneath a roof. Move left to underclings, then pull up over the roof and step around the corner to the left and belay on a foot ledge (or link into the next pitch). The crux is V4 and this pitch is well-protected.

P4 (5.9, 90'): Climb up a series of hollow flakes, eventually working left to a semi-hanging belay beneath the amazing corner. Extend the belay to a stance 10' below this anchor for maximum comfort and use the anchor as the first protection point when climbing the next pitch.

P5 (5.11a, 140'): This is the glory pitch - a magnificent black varnished corner providing several technical cruxes and thought-provoking but good gear. Climb through the first crux immediately above the belay, and continue up the corner. Higher there is a well-protected, tricky corner switch to the right, then some great, exposed moves up the arete separating the corners lead to yet another pretty corner. This is followed upwards past a final tricky section that employs a flake on the right face. Continue a little higher to a ledge system at the top of the wall.

Descent options:

1) By far the easiest option is to traverse 40' straight left from the final anchor to the anchor of the route "20%" which can be rappelled with a single 60m rope (five rappels). Rap 1: Head straight down over the face to a dedicated anchor (do not go into the corner). Rap 2: Continue down over the roof to a fantastic ledge. Rap 3: Rap down to an anchor at a stance at the top of a right-trending ramp. Raps 4 and 5: With an 80m rope continue straight down; with a 60m or 70m rope, swing left to Atmospheres and continue down that.

2) Rap the route with two ropes or a single 80 (I haven't personally verified that a single 80 works). This involves awkward swinging to negotiate the traverses.

3) Top out and walk off via the Brownstone Wall descent.

Protection

Double set from 0.3 to #2 Camalots. Singles of smaller TCU's and a set of wires.

Photos