Avg: 2.9 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 480 ft (145 m), 5 pitches|
|FA:||FA: Unknown.FFA: Joshua Janes & David Allfrey - Spring, 2013|
|Page Views:||3,622 total · 37/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on May 1, 2013|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen|
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Begin off the beautiful, polished rock terrace in the center of the wall, pleasantly verandaed by a large, solitary fir tree.
P1 (5.8, 80'): The "Flowers" Pitch. Climb up a lichen-covered slab to a short finger crack just right of the gully system beneath the central corner. From the finger crack, bushwhack leftwards across the top of the gully to a belay out left at a good stance. Bushy, but pleasingly fragrant.
P2 (5.10, 120'): Climb the corner. An awkward but fun start leads to exceptional climbing punctuated with great rests. Belay at a cramped stance below the steeper wall above.
P3 (5.12b, 50'): The boulder problem crux, follow face holds up a steepening wall to a good rest beneath a roof. Move left to underclings, then pull up over the roof and step around the corner to the left and belay on a foot ledge (or link into the next pitch). The crux is V4 and this pitch is well-protected.
P4 (5.9, 90'): Climb up a series of hollow flakes, eventually working left to a semi-hanging belay beneath the amazing corner. Extend the belay to a stance 10' below this anchor for maximum comfort and use the anchor as the first protection point when climbing the next pitch.
P5 (5.11a, 140'): This is the glory pitch - a magnificent black varnished corner providing several technical cruxes and thought-provoking but good gear. Climb through the first crux immediately above the belay, and continue up the corner. Higher there is a well-protected, tricky corner switch to the right, then some great, exposed moves up the arete separating the corners lead to yet another pretty corner. This is followed upwards past a final tricky section that employs a flake on the right face. Continue a little higher to a ledge system at the top of the wall.
1) By far the easiest option is to traverse 40' straight left from the final anchor to the anchor of the route "20%" which can be rappelled with a single 60m rope (five rappels). Rap 1: Head straight down over the face to a dedicated anchor (do not go into the corner). Rap 2: Continue down over the roof to a fantastic ledge. Rap 3: Rap down to an anchor at a stance at the top of a right-trending ramp. Raps 4 and 5: With an 80m rope continue straight down; with a 60m or 70m rope, swing left to Atmospheres and continue down that.
2) Rap the route with two ropes or a single 80 (I haven't personally verified that a single 80 works). This involves awkward swinging to negotiate the traverses.
3) Top out and walk off via the Brownstone Wall descent.