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Routes in Jet Stream Wall

20% T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Airhead T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Atmospheres T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Cold Front T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Drifting T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Jet Stream T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Tooth or Consequences T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 480 ft, 5 pitches
FA: FA: Unknown.
FFA: Joshua Janes & David Allfrey - Spring, 2013
Page Views: 2,627 total, 47/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on May 1, 2013
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Cold Front is a great new line (2-3 stars) that tackles the natural weakness - the attractive corner system - that divides the Jet Stream Wall in half (with Jet Stream and Atmospheres to the left and Drifting to the right). There are two amazing 5.10+/5.11- corner pitches that are linked together by a short 5.12 pitch that can easily be aided yielding a fun outing at an easier grade, but if you're up for the challenge the boulder problem crux is excellent as well. The only detractors are a short, dirty pitch off the ground and a bit of hollow rock on one section up higher.

Begin off the beautiful, polished rock terrace in the center of the wall, pleasantly verandaed by a large, solitary fir tree.

P1: The "Flowers" Pitch. Climb up a lichen-covered slab to a short finger crack just right of the gully system beneath the central corner. From the finger crack, bushwhack leftwards across the top of the gully to a belay out left at a good stance. Bushy, but pleasingly fragrant. 5.8, 80'.

P2: Climb the corner. An awkward but fun start leads to exceptional climbing punctuated with great rests. Belay at a cramped stance below the steeper wall above. 5.10, 120'.

P3: The boulder problem crux, follow face holds up a steepening wall to a good rest beneath a roof. Move left to underclings, then pull up over the roof and step around the corner to the left and belay on a foot ledge (or link into the next pitch). The crux is V4 and this pitch is well-protected. 5.12b, 50'.

P4: Climb up a series of hollow flakes, eventually working left to a semi-hanging belay beneath the amazing corner. Extend the belay to a stance 10' below this anchor for maximum comfort and use the anchor as the first protection point when climbing the next pitch. 5.9, 90'.

P5: This is the glory pitch - a magnificent black varnished corner providing several technical cruxes and thought-provoking but good gear. Climb through the first crux immediately above the belay, and continue up the corner. Higher there is a well-protected, tricky corner switch to the right, then some great, exposed moves up the arete separating the corners lead to yet another pretty corner. This is followed upwards past a final tricky section that employs a flake on the right face. Continue a little higher to a ledge system at the top of the wall. 5.11a, 140'.

Descent options:

1) By far the easiest option is to traverse 40' straight left from the final anchor to the anchor of the route "20%" which can be rappelled with a single 60m rope (five rappels). Rap 1: Head straight down over the face to a dedicated anchor (do not go into the corner). Rap 2: Continue down over the roof to a fantastic ledge. Rap 3: Rap down to an anchor at a stance at the top of a right-trending ramp. Raps 4 and 5: With an 80m rope continue straight down; with a 60m or 70m rope, swing left to Atmospheres and continue down that.

2) Rap the route with two ropes or a single 80 (I haven't personally verified that a single 80 works). This involves awkward swinging to negotiate the traverses.

3) Traverse right over to Drifting and rappel that with a single 70.

4) Top out and walk off via the Brownstone Wall descent.

Protection

Double set from 0.3 to #2 Camalots. Singles of smaller TCU's and a set of wires.
Darren in Vegas
Las Vegas, NV
Darren in Vegas   Las Vegas, NV
Heard through the grapevine that the last bolt of the crux pitch was primarily intended for aiding through, and may be hard to clip on lead while free climbing.

Another rumor has it that the seam that starts last pitch was originally lead on all gear, the bolt was added later to make this more fun and a touch safer. Sep 7, 2016
harrison t
Black Hills, SD
 
harrison t   Black Hills, SD
 
Fun route.. Three #1s and 2s would not go unused on P2. Dec 12, 2015
Amos Whiting
Basalt, Colorado
 
Amos Whiting   Basalt, Colorado
 
We climbed this route last fall and it is quite good. One member got a "Trash" but the leaders french freed the harder pitches. The approach up the decent of Rose Tower is interesting yet goes fairly quick. The base of the route is marked with a amazing slab of varnished stone we dubbed "the laser slab".

P1: Pretty bushy and a bit funky to get started. A few fun moves before the anchor.

P2: Beautiful 10+ hands to a awkward hanging belay.

p3: The boulder problem description is correct for this. It is some .11- to a short V4. Our leader climbed it at .10+ A0. With a stick clip one could easily aid through.

P4: A bit hollow but never that hard.

P5: The glory pitch our leader climbed it at .10+ c2. It is a bit far to the first bolt. One could have a long extension off the anchor and clip the anchor as the first piece.

We rappelled the route with 2 60m ropes in 4 raps.

The rack is good, we would add a extra #1 and #2 Camelots for the 2nd pitch. Extra tiny cams for the last pitch. Sep 27, 2015
Austin Boren
las vegas Nevada
 
Austin Boren   las vegas Nevada
 
Nice climb. Each pitch took a bit of thinking. Cool exposed crux. Small nut/rp's are nice for the last pitch. Thanks FA'ers. Nov 1, 2014
David Allfrey
Las Vegas, Nevada
David Allfrey   Las Vegas, Nevada
This is a fun route, the pitches are really great.
May 28, 2013
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.12b
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.12b
Excellent looking line guys! Edit (9/27/15) I was able to climb this yesterday after wanting to get on it for a while. The rack beta is pretty accurate but for P2, save the #3 Camalot for higher up as well as a #2. The "boulder problem" crux is rather sustained and the jug rest after the first V4 moves is on a block I was hesitant to hang out on. The crux, in my opinion, is getting over the roof on slimps and bad feet.

P1: 120' 5.8
P2: 120' 5.10c
P3: 40' 5.12b
P4: 90' 5.9
P5: 140' 5.11b (Offset stoppers/brass are nice for this pitch.)

It may be possible to rap with an 80m rope? Or, easily with 2 60m ropes. The rap on the crux pitch has a bolt/leaver biner to facilitate the large pendulum required to reach the anchor. May 14, 2013
Rob Fielding
Las Vegas, NV
Rob Fielding   Las Vegas, NV
Sounds like a good line, lets see some pics! May 2, 2013