Type: Trad, 460 ft (139 m), 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,138 total · 26/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Another great route on the Jet Stream Wall: Challenging, varied, and adventurous; a well-rounded climber will enjoy this one! Although "20%" might be the easiest route on the wall, the name may or may not refer to your chances of onsighting the most excellent and devious crux pitch. Good luck!

At the center of the wall, below Cold Front, is a beautiful, polished rock terrace, pleasantly verandaed by a large, solitary fir tree. Begin about 15 feet left of the tree beneath the right side of the lichen-speckled lower wall; careful inspection will reveal a high bolt which can also be easily observed by standing at the start of Jet Stream/Airhead/Atmospheres and looking straight right.

P1 (100’, 5.10): Things start off with a bang: Scramble up some easy ground, clip the first bolt and immediately leap for a flat jug just above it. Fun! Continue up the slab above, navigating an easy run out to a well-protected high crux. Move left and up to an anchor on a comfortable ledge. Five bolts protect. This pitch is enjoyable despite having a lot of lichen. The best holds are clean, but figuring out which ones those are from below is challenging.

P2 (130’, 5.11d): Move right to an architecturally interesting low-angle corner and begin climbing, back cleaning any pro you might place until you can clip the first of five bolts with a shoulder-length runner. From here step back left around the arete to a stance on the main face. Decode a tenuous, extended crux up a steep slab before finally gaining a good rest. From here, move up to the obvious arching flake and follow this as it steepens to a difficult and sequential second crux (A #5 or #6 Brass Offset is necessary if you wish to have pro close by or need to aid the crux). Continue more easily up to a right-trending ramp which leads to a good belay stance.

P3 (90’, 5.11a): Move back down the ramp to regain the crack system and follow this to a bolt protecting a thin flake. Continue up a funky shallow corner passing two more bolts before committing to an exciting stretch of climbing up and right across a varnished face to a fantastic belay ledge high on the wall.

P4 (140’, 5.10): Carefully work up a loose cleft towards the ominous bomb bay chimney above. Don’t worry, the rock improves dramatically a little higher! From a hand jam and a key #1 Camalot placement, traverse rightwards before executing some seriously weird and strenuous moves to get up into the chimney. With creativity this section is probably 10c but it may feel harder without good beta. Chimney up really nice varnish until the chimney closes into a hand and finger crack in a right-facing corner. Follow this to an anchor at the top of the wall. Excellent!

Descent: Rap 1: Head straight down over the face to a dedicated anchor (do not rap the corner you just climbed). Rap 2: Continue down over the roof to the fantastic belay ledge atop P3. Rap 3: Rap down to the belay stance atop P2. Raps 4 and 5: With an 80m rope continue straight down the route; with a 60m or 70m rope, swing left to Atmospheres and continue down that.

Protection

A single set of cammers from tiny to #2 Camalot. Optional doubles in 0.5, 0.75, #1 Camalot.
Wires.
A dozen draws/slings.
Some RP’s and a #5 or #6 Brass Offset are handy if you want pro to be close for the crux (or need to aid it).

Photos