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Routes in The Double Clutching Wall

11:11 (AKA "Welcome to the Waterfall") T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Block Party T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Checkin' The Oil Direct T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Checkin' the Oil T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chronic, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Comin In Hot T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crux Deluxe T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Clutching T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Helix T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
In a Blunt T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Kool Whip Crackle Fizz, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rude Awakening T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Super Chronic T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
SwitchBlade T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Terminal Mocha T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Thin Faith T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Wolverine T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Joel Unema 2013
Page Views: 1,341 total, 27/month
Shared By: Joel Unema on Sep 30, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Welcome to the Waterfall religion and prepare to put your faith to the test as things get slim and grim. Begin your journey with moderate climbing up a right trending ramp, traversing left (before some loose blocks on the ramp)to a sharp right-trending flake. Continue up the flake and pull around right to a stance beneath the roof.
Above this, things get thin.
Follow the seam up through technical and delicate climbing until a slight horizontal break where the rock gets steep.
Traverse slightly left of the steep dihedral to gain face holds on the overhanging prow, making powerful moves to reach the pillar ledge above the prow. The two bolt anchor lies above the steep dihedral to the right of the climbed line.

Location

Thin Faith begins in a right leaning ramp corner directly behind the tree between Double Helix and Super Chronic. It continues up to pull the left side of the roof next to the Chronic.

Protection

Quintessential waterfall rack:
My recommended gear list: (redpoint gear plus additional pieces)
Single set of cams from .4 camalot to #1 camalot
1x yellow metolius tcu
Small set of medium nuts
Set of micro-offset nuts
3x red c3
2x green c3
3x purple c3
3x grey c3
2x red ball nut
2x blue ball nut


Photos

MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
Man, I just love the energy that has been put into the Waterfall area in this millennium. Keep it rolling! Nov 15, 2013
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Way to line 'em up and knock 'em down Joel! When I first rapped this line I thought it would be a brilliant pitch. Judging by your enthusiasm it turned out that way! I knew the day would come when the hard lines would start falling at the Waterfall, but never expected it to be so soon. Your drive, enthusiasm, and humble approach is inspiring. Looks like the future of the crag is right now.... Sep 30, 2013
Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
 
This is my favorite line at the Waterfall to date. At the top of the climb, the most obvious line continues directly up the dihedral, where I climbed slightly left on the overhanging prow. The steep prow offered the same protection, the path of least resistance, and much higher quality climbing than the dihedral.

Thanks so much to JJ Schlick for turning me on to this line, David Bloom for cleaning and working the route with me, and the best belayer in the world, Carrie Albrecht, for the belay on this fine route. Sep 30, 2013