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Routes in The Double Clutching Wall

11:11 (aka "Welcome to the Waterfall") T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Block Party T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Checkin' the Oil T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chronic, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Comin In Hot T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crux Deluxe T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty Dipstick T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Double Clutching T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Helix T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
In a Blunt T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Kool Whip Crackle Fizz, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rude Awakening T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Super Chronic T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
SwitchBlade T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Terminal Mocha T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Thin Faith T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
Wolverine T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
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Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Josh Janes - June, 2009
Page Views: 2,846 total · 25/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 28, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

11:11 (obviously the name has nothing to do with the rating) climbs the overhanging S-shaped crack just right of Double Clutching and left of Double Helix.

Head up to a low roof, and pull gingerly past this (some hollow-sounding flakes) to the right, and then follow a cool seam and corner up to a stance. This is just left of the business (the bottom of the S-crack). Place a blind cam if possible and then crank on some good locks to get up into the crack which gradually widens to perfect hands. Mantle onto the top of the column to a bolted lower-off.

This is a great, entirely gear-protected route with a burly, fun crux.

Protection

Pro to 3", extra tips and small fingers pieces. Wires. A 60m rope *might* make it down but use a 70 to be sure.
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Great job on this FA Josh! It's a great addition to a great crag. I'm looking forward to getting the redpoint. Jun 28, 2009
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Make a wish? Well done. I agree with Mike, it is just a matter of time. Jun 30, 2009
Almost sent this classic recently. Slipped on the lower 5.11 stemming at flare. Huge bush growing out of it. Once i removed the foilage was able to fire the crux bulge and up to the chains. Gonna have to try it again some time! WOnderful route! 5.12a Oct 23, 2011
Josh Janes    
 
Glad people are getting on this - JJ, have you sent yet? Dec 18, 2011
Robbie Brown
the road
  5.12-
Robbie Brown   the road
  5.12-
This line kicks ass! Powerful, technical, and clean! Jun 30, 2013
Josh Janes    
 
I aided this in June, 2009 to clean all the bushes out of it (Matt Schwartz belaying) and lowered off a pair of wires, coming back a week later to fire it first go (Mike Sokoloff belaying). I then hauled up a hand drill and two bolts that JJ had generously given me for installing a proper anchor. The first bolt took me nearly an hour to drill and trashed me so badly that - considering I still wanted to climb more that day - I ended up just equalizing it with the fixed wires. But even though I moved away shortly afterwards I held on to that second bolt - finally returning three and a half years later in December, 2012. I climbed it again, and this time power-drilled a hole for the second anchor bolt. Finally done and what a great line! Totally worth the sore elbow and dealing with the stubborn bush that persists in making this route its home. Jan 9, 2018
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
If my memory serves all I had was a bit. No actual “hand drill”. You hand drilled that bolt with just a bit. You badass. I never hauled a hand drill up there in my life. Jan 23, 2018

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