Avg: 3.5 from 46 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft (24 m)|
|FA:||JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2011|
|Page Views:||2,707 total · 21/month|
|Shared By:||JJ Schlick on May 1, 2011|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd|
Crux Deluxe is a fantastic all natural gear line which shares the start of Double Clutching. Start up large flake pillar and mantle to small ledge on the right. Work left through excellent bottle neck finger locks and up through a short, chunky, though solid section of rock.
From a conspicuous diagonal #.75 placement at the 40' mark on climbers left, move up and right to a good thick flake. A little mental crux of the route is above you. Move gingerly into a hollow section of rock. Though the moves are only 5.9 here, they feel a bit weird at first. Plan on placing several marginal pieces here (small wires, small TCU). Move up to roof past thin fingers and bust the wild moves out the roof (5.10+).
Rest up after the roof at the small horizontal crack and eye the line well. Move up using distinct holds on the left, and the main crack on the right. At the steep finger section plug in a #3 TCU and punch through some steep bouldery moves using big holds on both sides of mini arete 5.11. Plan on firing in a .5 or.75 camalot mid crux. Finish up by following the main splitter past huge jugs and a full on stance to clip the anchors, so don't be afraid to punch it at the end.
A great pitch that gets better and better the more you get to know it.