All Locations > Arizona > Northern Arizona > Oak Creek Canyon > *The Waterfall* > The Double Clutching Wall
Avg: 3.5 from 29 votes
Routes in The Double Clutching Wall
|11:11 (AKA "Welcome to the Waterfall") T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Block Party T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Checkin' The Oil Direct T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c|
|Checkin' the Oil T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Chronic, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Comin In Hot T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Crux Deluxe T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Double Clutching T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Double Helix T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|In a Blunt T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Kool Whip Crackle Fizz, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Rude Awakening T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Super Chronic T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|SwitchBlade T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b|
|Terminal Mocha T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Thin Faith T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Wolverine T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c|
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|FA:||JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2011|
|Page Views:||1,463 total, 18/month|
|Shared By:||JJ Schlick on May 1, 2011|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionCrux Deluxe is a fantastic all natural gear line which shares the same start as Double Clutching. Start up large flake pillar and mantle to small ledge on pillar right. Work left through excellent bottle neck finger locks and up through a short chunky, though solid section of rock.
From a conspicuous diagonal #.75 placement at the 40' mark on climbers left, move up and right to a good thick flake. A little mental crux of the route is above you. Move gingerly into a hollow section of rock. Though the moves are only 5.9 here, they feel a bit weird at first. Plan on placing several marginal pieces here (small wires, small TCU). Move up to roof past thin fingers and bust the wild moves out the roof (5.10+).
Rest up after the roof at the small horizontal crack and eye the line well. Move up using distinct holds on the left, and the main crack on the right. At the steep finger section plug in a #3 TCU and punch through some steep bouldery moves using big holds on both sides of mini arete 5.11. Plan on firing in a .5 or.75 camalot mid crux. Finish up by following the main splitter past huge jugs, and a full on stance to clip the anchors, so don't be afraid to punch it at the end.
A great pitch that gets better and better the more you get to know it.