Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2011
Page Views: 3,365 total · 21/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on May 1, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Crux Deluxe is an eye catching and fantastic all natural gear line which sports a lot of cool finger jamming through quite varied terrain, which includes one of the cooler roofs at The Waterfall. Start on detached flake pillar and mantle to a small ledge on the top of this feature. Work left through excellent bottle neck finger locks and up through a short, chunky, though solid section of rock.

From a conspicuous diagonal #.75 placement at the 40' mark on climbers left, move up and right to a good thick flake. A little mental crux of the route is above you. Move gingerly into a hollow section of rock in the left facing dihedral. Though the moves here are only 5.9, they feel a bit strange at first, though the holds are well defined at this point. Plan on placing a marginal piece or two here (small wires, small #000. or just bigger) if it weirds you out. Move up to the roof past tips and thin fingers, then bust the wild moves out the roof (5.10+).

Rest up after the roof at the small horizontal crack and eye the line well. Move up using distinct holds on the left, and the main crack on the right. At the steep fingers section plug in a #3 TCU and punch through some steep moves using footholds or toe jams on either side of the minI arête. Plan on firing in a .5 or .75 camalot mid crux. Finish up by committing to the main splitter past a jam test and a full on stance to clip the anchors, so don't be afraid to punch it at the end. A great pitch that gets better and better the more you get to know it.

Location Suggest change

Shares start with Double Clutching.

Protection Suggest change

Triples #.1 through #.75 camalot, a #1 Camalot, Small/medium wires. Runners will help your rope flow.

2 bolt chain anchor with Climb Tech mussy hooks