Super Chronic

Super Chron is the logical, direct extension to the classic route the Chronic and had been eyed by many a climber throughout the years. One day I finally climbed to the top of the wall, placed an anchor, cleaned out the crack, and fell in love. The full line to the top is one the most classic all natural gear 5.12- routes at the Waterfall. It combines all the best features that make this crag so spectacular. It has a short section of ‘earn your burn' funk in the beginning, then a splitter 60' run of slightly overhanging fingers, followed by brilliant edges and gas pocket jugs at the top!! It’s exciting, rowdy, positive, sustained, steep, and well protected.

After you burl your way through the original pitch (anchor on left at 75'), find a suitable rest before launching into the steep, slightly traversing fingers section above you (#.3). If you make it to the hands pod (#2 BD) then fire up to the pinnacle jug and start looking for on the run protection while sorting out the slightly overhanging face climbing up pockets and edges.

The original Chronic was established by Tim Maloney and John Govi in the 90’s and the original bolted anchor remains in place at 75’-80’. The Chronic remains a test of 5.11 finger jamming for many and is a classic send by itself.

My preferred rack consisted of  (1) #2 gold BD Camalot, (3) #.5 BD Camalots, (8) #3 orange TCU, (4) #2 yellow TCU, (2) #1 blue TCU, (2) #0 purple TCU, small/medium wires. See comments below for other suggestions.

Though you can squeak by with a 60m rope on this route do to base blocks, a 70m rope is highly recommended.