Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2010
Page Views: 3,680 total · 37/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Nov 6, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

25 Opinions

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Super Chron, is the logical extension to the classic route the Chronic and had been eyed by many a climber throughout the years. One day I finally climbed to the top of the wall, placed an anchor, cleaned her out, and fell in love. The full line to the top of the wall is one the most classic, all natural gear 5.12- routes at the Waterfall. It combines all the best features that make this crag so spectacular. It has some 'earn your burn' funk in the beginning, then a splitter 60' run of slightly overhanging fingers, followed by brilliant edges and gas pocket jugs at the top!! It’s exciting, rowdy, positive, sustained, steep, and well protected.

After you burl your way through the original pitch (anchor on left at 75'), find a suitable rest before launching into the steep, slightly traversing fingers section above you (#.3). If you make it to the hands pod (#2 BD) then fire up to the pinnacle jug and start looking for on the run protection while sorting out the slightly overhanging face climbing up pockets and edges.


The Chronic is hard to miss and is a showcase route on this section of cliff. Look for 40' of lower angle weakness to roofish, right facing dihedral finger crack.


My rack consisted of  (1) #2 gold BD Camalot, (3) #.5 BD Camalots, (8) #3 orange TCU, (4) #2 yellow TCU, (2) #1 blue TCU, (2) #0 purple TCU, small/medium wires.

Though you can squeak by with a 60m rope on this route do to base blocks, a 70m rope is highly recommended.


JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Feeling excited to have sent this line today in an exhausting, on the run effort. Super exciting pitch!! All gear if you don't clip the original anchor on your by it, and there is no need to do that. If you like the hard stuff up here, then you had better get on this thing. Nov 14, 2010
Josh Janes    
Fuck yeah! Nov 15, 2010
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Nice JJ! Great description! I need to get down and throw myself at it. I miss the Waterfall! Nov 17, 2010
All this talk about the stealing of gear at Oak Creek Waterfall sucks, sorry to hear it. What about the stealing of route names though? Tim Maloney and did the first ascent of The Chronic in the 90's. We named the route after the then popular musical release by Dr. Dre, The Chronic. Back in the day it was considered appropriate to name any extension to an existing route a "direct finish." Perhaps you should list the route as The Chronic and credit the first ascent team, and list the Super Chronic as "Super Chronic Direct Finish." I would hate to see this great route lose its genuine identity.

Sincerely Yours, John Govi Nov 20, 2011
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Hi John, The Chronic has it's own original listing for this wall that Manny added in 2006. We just started calling the extension the Super Chron in a very affectionate way. The original anchors remain as well so that people have the option doing whichever they prefer. Nothing but props to you and all who ventured before in this intimidating vertical wonderland. I was able to onsight the Chronic back in the late 90’s, and it remains one of my favorites up there. Nov 20, 2011
Right on John and a great line to both you and Tim. Also, I was either with Carl Tobin or Darren for what we believe was the 2nd ascent of this amazing route, and thinking the grade was more like 11c and not 12.

I remember you two on the first ascent and thinking, Wow- Great Job!

Some time later Darren and I discussed the grade and 12 seemed just too much, however the grade made his paper copy of the area. Toula got a hold of that copy and put it in the newest (at the time) edition of a Cheap Way to Die and so it remained ( I think ).

I agree The Chronic goes to the first anchor and the extension is the Super Chronic. That seems fair.

Eric Meudt Nov 20, 2011
Toast with Butter
Tempe, AZ
Toast with Butter   Tempe, AZ
Great finish. I didn't think any of the moves were as hard as the cruxs on the chronic, especially with the good rest at the first anchors. I ran out of finger size cams but i was able to protect well with a DMM offset nut rack. If i did it again i would bring a few extra finger size pieces for the finish. Nov 8, 2013
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
I'd agree there is no definitive .12- crux on this route, and I always thought of it as .11+ to a pumpy rest, then pumpy 5.11 to the high anchor. I've seen a handful of exciting onsights of this pitch, but I've also seen it shut down a lot of talented climbers. I've always thought .12- was a fair grade, especially for an onsight. Nov 9, 2013