Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2010
Page Views: 4,097 total · 38/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Nov 6, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

Super Chron is the logical direct finish to the classic route the Chronic and had been eyed by many a climber throughout the years. One day I finally climbed to the top of the wall, placed an anchor, cleaned her out, and fell in love. The full line to the top is one the most classic, all natural gear 5.12- routes at the Waterfall. It combines all the best features that make this crag so spectacular. It has some 'earn your burn' funk in the beginning, then a splitter 60' run of slightly overhanging fingers, followed by brilliant edges and gas pocket jugs at the top!! It’s exciting, rowdy, positive, sustained, steep, and well protected.

After you burl your way through the original pitch (anchor on left at 75'), find a suitable rest before launching into the steep, slightly traversing fingers section above you (#.3). If you make it to the hands pod (#2 BD) then fire up to the pinnacle jug and start looking for on the run protection while sorting out the slightly overhanging face climbing up pockets and edges.

The original Chronic was established by Tim Maloney and John Govi in the 90’s and the original bolted anchor remains in place at 75’-80’. The Chronic remains a test of 5.11 finger jamming for many and is a classic send by itself.

Location

The Chronic is hard to miss and is a showcase route on this section of cliff. Look for 40' of lower angle weakness to roofish, right facing dihedral finger crack.

Protection

My rack consisted of  (1) #2 gold BD Camalot, (3) #.5 BD Camalots, (8) #3 orange TCU, (4) #2 yellow TCU, (2) #1 blue TCU, (2) #0 purple TCU, small/medium wires.

Though you can squeak by with a 60m rope on this route do to base blocks, a 70m rope is highly recommended.

Photos