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Routes in The Double Clutching Wall

11:11 (AKA "Welcome to the Waterfall") T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Block Party T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Checkin' The Oil Direct T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Checkin' the Oil T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chronic, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Comin In Hot T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crux Deluxe T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Clutching T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Helix T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
In a Blunt T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Kool Whip Crackle Fizz, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rude Awakening T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Super Chronic T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
SwitchBlade T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Terminal Mocha T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Thin Faith T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Wolverine T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: D Bloom
Page Views: 1,715 total, 30/month
Shared By: Floater Bloom on Mar 11, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description


This route has a long history, Back in 1993 Eric Muedt and John Govi hand drilled the one bolt on the route. Many years later a rumor surfaced that this climb was called White Lie and rated 5.11+. A couple of years ago I was curious about the line so I got on it. Much to my surprise the route was way harder and had no anchors. Luckily we had hardware that day and a project was born. After a few seasons and several partners the route was sent at the end of February 2013. Definitely one of the hardest pitches at The Waterfall and super quality.

Location

Start on the Chronic, traverse right at 25' past a lone bolt, and climb second dihedral on the right.

Protection

(3) #00, (1) #0, (2) 0.3, (2) 0.4, (2) 0.5, (1) 2.0

Photos

Eric D
Gnarnia
  5.13-
Eric D   Gnarnia
  5.13-
I agree with the slider beta. Not crucial, but certainly nice. Small nuts can be useful too depending on personal preference. What a route! It's hard not to spray about this thing but will keep my words limited to allow a fresh experience for others. Jan 25, 2016
Casey Niggemyer
Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.13-
Casey Niggemyer   Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.13-
I would add a red slider to the rack for wolverine. While the climbing that it protects is probably only 5.10, it is the only gear There and would be quite run out without it. Dec 14, 2014
Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
Nice Dave... Thought that thing had to be 13 based on the effort you were putting into it while floating up everything else in the area. Can't wait to check it out some day. Apr 10, 2013