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Routes in The Double Clutching Wall

11:11 (aka "Welcome to the Waterfall") T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Block Party T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Checkin' the Oil T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chronic, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Comin In Hot T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crux Deluxe T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty Dipstick T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Double Clutching T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Helix T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
In a Blunt T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Kool Whip Crackle Fizz, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rude Awakening T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Super Chronic T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
SwitchBlade T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Terminal Mocha T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Thin Faith T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
Wolverine T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
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Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest, James Q Martin 2010
Page Views: 2,159 total · 22/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Nov 15, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

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Double Helix has gone from a vision, through the works, and come out the other side as a most endearing Waterfall pitch. Aside from the rack, you had better bring your game.

Start out in an obvious tight, vertical stem box, a little bit right of the route 11:11. Be clever with your gear, fingers and toes because she comes out fighting right off the deck. Move up to the first bolt. How can it be hard with such big holds? There are many ways to do it, but thinking outside the box is going to get you moving again past the first stemming crux (layback the jugs on your left, hidden pocket out right).

Pass a couple of bolts through a very fun and thoughtful low angle section of stone to access the stem box on your left. Go 12' or so before your next piece(s) of gear (.05 BD and solid wires too). Start moving into tech mode with thin wires, and behind your back stemming through an awesome stretch of finger buckets and perfect finger pods, which will guide you through the middle stem box.

Take a rest, and eye your gear well because the helix is about to twist once again! When you're ready, launch into the steep laybacking section, which leads to the entrance of the off fist crack. Which eventually tightens down to perfect steep hands, and keeps tightening down to fingers at the apex of the bulge! Look for clever, and obvious steep stemming, pocket jugs, and finger buckets. It's not over until it's over. Another full on beautiful line!

This line was quite easily the dirtiest route Wade and I ever cleaned at the Waterfall. The entire upper crack, from the wide section up was filled with a very fine textured ancient sand which had a stubborn bite. Armed with specially machined tools and swimmers goggles, we set out to free both the choking sand and the beautiful deep crack. An effort well rewarded.


Doubles from #00 TCUs to .5 BD- (save at least one #3 TCU for the top!) they are light and you may want them. Singles from .75 BD to 3.5 BD. Small/medium wires!


JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Also, a special props to Josh Cross for making it happen on a "flash" second ascent!! He had 15% of the info, and the other 85% was all Josh! Sports action! I love it!

It is kind of... one of those lines where.... just a little bit of beta goes a long way as far as enjoyment goes. Did I mention that it is a long pitch...;) Dec 12, 2010
Matt S  
RIGHT ON JJ. nice work on the send and all the work you put into this thing. i wish i could have seen it go down. Dec 18, 2010
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
Totally killer route! Quality rock and movement bottom to top. I used a #4 C4 up higher, and think that either the old 3.5 or 4 BD Camalot would work just fine. Apr 1, 2014

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