Type: Trad, 115 ft (35 m)
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest, James Q Martin 2010
Page Views: 3,310 total · 25/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Nov 15, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route

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Double Helix is a wild route. Varied and sometimes tricky climbing will keep your mind busy, while the stellar positioning and exposure will rock your soul. Aside from the rack, you had better bring your game.

Start out in an obvious tight, vertical stem box, a little bit right of the route 11:11. Be clever with your gear, fingers and toes because it comes out fighting right off the deck. Move up to the first bolt and try to unlock a puzzlingly sequence on big holds. There are many ways to do it, but thinking outside the box is going to get you moving again past the first stemming crux (layback the jugs on your left, hidden pocket out right).

Pass a couple of bolts through a very fun and thoughtful low angle section of stone to access the stem box on your left. Go 12' or so before your next piece(s) of gear. Start moving into tech mode with thin wires and behind your back stemming through an awesome stretch of finger buckets and perfect finger pods, which will guide you through the middle stem box.

Take a rest and eye your gear well because the helix is about to twist once again! When you're ready, launch into the steep laybacking section, which leads to the entrance of the off fist crack. Which eventually tightens down to perfect steep hands, and keeps tightening down to fingers at the apex of the bulge! Look for clever and obvious steep stemming, pocket jugs, and finger buckets. It's not over until it's over. Another full on beautiful line!

This line was quite easily the dirtiest route Wade and I ever cleaned at the Waterfall. The entire upper crack, from the wide section up was filled with a very fine textured ancient sand which had a stubborn bite. Armed with specially machined tools, masks, and swimmers goggles, we set out to free both the choking sand and the beautiful deep crack. An effort well rewarded. While cleaning this pitch we truly became one with the wall; mind, body, and soul.


Doubles from #00 TCUs to .5 BD- (save at least one #3 TCU for the top!) they are light and you may want them. Singles from .75 BD to 3.5 BD. Small/medium wires!