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Routes in Cliff Boulders

Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 379 total, 7/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on Sep 15, 2013
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Like crimps?

Like really, really sharp, tiny crimps?

Then you're in luck because this is the climb for you!

Start standing with a few different options- either at left utilizing a good crimp flake or on the right using a high right crimp/gaston. Enjoy these holds because those are the last good ones you will grab until the top.

Pull off the ground and try to piece together a sequence that works for you using small technical feet and tiny sharp crimps. If you make it to the good horizontal, either traverse slightly left and up through a crack (harder, scarier and better) or bail right around the corner (easier, less scary, kind of lame). The top is often dirty and covered with pine needles so scope it out beforehand.

It isn't a four star classic, but it is hard, technical face climbing. If that's your thing, you'll love it.

The arete at right is not 'on' for this problem. This climb only utilizes holds on the face to the left of the arete.

Location

Located above the Upper Cliff in the same amphitheater as 'Vulcan Tip Rip' and others. This problem climbs the face to the left of 'The Tip Rip Arete' without using the arete.

Protection

A couple of pads. Lots of tape.

Photos

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