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Routes in Cliff Boulders

Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Charlie Bentley
Page Views: 2,517 total, 20/month
Shared By: Tristan Perry on Aug 13, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Over the winter of 2010-2011, a piece of rock broke off of the wall creating a hold where, before, there wasn't one. The original problem & sequence is unaffected, however, it created another way to climb the wall. Before the break, an ascent of this problem was rare and it's safe to assume the original problem hasn't been climbed in a while.

Original Problem (Hard V9)



It starts sitting with a few holds in a low horizontal crack. Once you stand up into the underclings, a very long and tenuous move straight up to a flat, half-pad crimper gets you going. Get your left hand up to a small crimp on the left, then you have to use your technical prowess to tick-tack your feet and hands up...until you can gain the monster jug in the middle of the rock. A mantle on this hold is needed to top out. This is a great challenge of fingerstrength and footwork. The flake and foot jug out right never even come into play.

New Wave Version (V8)



The most obvious way to climb the problem. Start sitting in the crack, stand up into the underclings and grab the creaky flake. Continue through the crimps and stick a foot in the start hold of Jugs to reach the jug before topping out. If you choose to eschew the huge foot, it bumps the grade back to a soft V9. If the flake weren't there, the huge foot wouldn't be a question as there is no way to reach it on the original problem.

Location

To the left Jugs - on the first boulder that you approach by hiking up the well defined trail from the left side of the Lower Slabs to the Upper Cliff.

Protection

Crashpad

Photos

Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
  V9+
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
  V9+
I agree with Troy, the original way is really good but definitely bring skin. I kept feet on, and the hardest move for me was the right hand move off of the two middle crimps, the first wasn't too bad with the correct foot and my tentacle arms (sorry!). This felt brick hard to me, but this style is not my strength. May 10, 2017
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V9+
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V9+
For the long move I have my right foot on a good spot in the middle of the slab and my left foot is just used to push and balance my way up onto my tip toes while I am reaching up with my right hand. While doing this my left hand is slowly coming out of the undercling to give me maximum reach because it is so far. Once you grab that crimp you have to hold it like your life depends on it. Releasing the left hand undercling and sticking the next move was the crux for me. Reachy, sharp and good! youtube.com/watch?v=ku-FFZG… Jan 19, 2017
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V8
I hope you got video. I'm interested to see how it goes since it's such a long move. I may have to give this a go now. Oct 31, 2016
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V9+
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V9+
Managed to finish this thing today. Felt hard V9. Didn't think it was gunna happen to be honest. Actually really cool though. There are plenty of feet to choose from to make the reach to the right hand crimp and then its just bearing down as hard as you possibly can to get your left hand up. Here I cut feet stabbed a right foot on bumped right hand to a better hold then dynoed left hand to the jug. Split a tip on the send but it was well worth it! Oct 30, 2016
I got out there yesterday and gave it a try. Couldn't link it together but did all the moves. I agree that the original beta is now the easiest method. However, it is wildly reachy. Mar 14, 2015
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V9
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V9
Looks like the original beta is now the way to go! Dec 7, 2014
Update: the flake is now gone. well its still there, but not on the wall, its on the ground next to the boulder. sorry everyoneeee :( seems a lot harder now. theres a sidepull to use now but it seems more like a v9 or harder to me. I posted a pic also. Dec 5, 2014
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
  V9+
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
  V9+
Thinking about it some more maybe the new wave version is a bit easier than v8? Didn't feel too bad when it went, grades are an endless confusion. Great movement, great problem either way. More people should add to the discourse. Apr 14, 2014
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
  V9+
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
  V9+
glad I wasn't the one to rip the flake off the wall, that thing makes some loud sounds, be nice to it. Apr 7, 2014
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V9
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V9
Updated the description... Aug 27, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
Yes Sir, it was my first v8, Thanks! This route is a pretty amazing line! Aug 26, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V8
Way to crush, Matt! First v8? Congrats! Aug 25, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
I climbed this route today and I think it is a very high quality route. I think the most logical and least contrived way to climb it is, start standing on the underlings and use both the creaky flake and the foot on the start hold of jugs, the line has nice flow and feel natural in this manner.

Regardless it is an awesome climb. Aug 25, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V8
Bryce (and everyone)--

Thanks for the info. It's really interesting to know the history and original beta for climbs. That all seems about right, with regards to the grades for all the different variations. Using the 'creaky flake' and the crack of 'Jugs' for a foot is arguably the most natural/least contrived of all the variations, but the direct move to the crimps above seems really cool too. However, at my height (shorter than you) it seems a bit too reachy. Anyhow, thanks for the answer. This is what Mountain Project is great for. Jul 4, 2012
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V9
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V9
To my knowledge, the creaky crimp is "on" however any of the holds on Jugs are "off." Before the crimp broke and became a rather large hold, it wasn't even used as part of the problem. At 5'11" I'm not long enough to do the original sequence of using the underclings to reach the crimps directly above the start. I'd give the original sequence a morpho-dependent grade of hard V9, the new sequence with the flexi crimp a soft V9 and anything involving "Jugs" a V8. Jul 4, 2012
Ethan Chase
  V8-9
Ethan Chase  
  V8-9
The flake is on. Jul 2, 2012
Rodriguez
Durham, NH
Rodriguez   Durham, NH
I think the "creaky flake" out right is in, but what I'm not sure about is the use of the starting horizontal crack of Jugs (V3) out right as a foot. I've seen it used in videos and Matt mentioned using it above, but I've heard mixed opinions on whether its supposed to be in or not. Perhaps it feels more like V8 if you use it, versus the given grade of V9 if you don't? If anyone knows the original sequence, I'd be curious if its in. Regardless, the movement through the crimps is great! Jul 2, 2012
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V8
Bryce-- I'm a bit confused about this problem. Is the creaky but good flake to the right 'on'? Or do you go straight off the underclings to the small crimps above and not use the flake out right? Jun 28, 2012
Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
  V8-9
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
  V8-9
I sent this last week and was able to highstep and get a toe on the crack of jugs. I don't know if this was V9, but I've seen five people send this and they all did it like that. V8?

This was very dependent on body position, and is probably easier if you are taller. Mar 29, 2012
Lanky
Tired
 
Lanky   Tired
 
That news might reinvigorate my interest in this problem, Mr. Dalhaus. Apr 11, 2011
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V9
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V9
A hold recently broke, leaving a slightly more friendly edge and a slightly shorter reach from the underclings. Getting to the jug after the crimps is still a massive dyno for me. Apr 11, 2011
Lanky
Tired
 
Lanky   Tired
 
"Very long" is right! I'm just under 5'11" with a +1 ape index and I'm not sure I can make the reach. Sep 25, 2008