Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Charlie Bentley
Page Views: 2,911 total · 20/month
Shared By: Tristan Perry on Aug 13, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Over the winter of 2010-2011, a piece of rock broke off of the wall creating a hold where, before, there wasn't one. The original problem & sequence is unaffected, however, it created another way to climb the wall. Before the break, an ascent of this problem was rare and it's safe to assume the original problem hasn't been climbed in a while.

Original Problem (Hard V9)

It starts sitting with a few holds in a low horizontal crack. Once you stand up into the underclings, a very long and tenuous move straight up to a flat, half-pad crimper gets you going. Get your left hand up to a small crimp on the left, then you have to use your technical prowess to tick-tack your feet and hands up...until you can gain the monster jug in the middle of the rock. A mantle on this hold is needed to top out. This is a great challenge of fingerstrength and footwork. The flake and foot jug out right never even come into play.

New Wave Version (V8)

The most obvious way to climb the problem. Start sitting in the crack, stand up into the underclings and grab the creaky flake. Continue through the crimps and stick a foot in the start hold of Jugs to reach the jug before topping out. If you choose to eschew the huge foot, it bumps the grade back to a soft V9. If the flake weren't there, the huge foot wouldn't be a question as there is no way to reach it on the original problem.

Location

To the left Jugs - on the first boulder that you approach by hiking up the well defined trail from the left side of the Lower Slabs to the Upper Cliff.

Protection

Crashpad

Photos