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Routes in Cliff Boulders

Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Brett Meyers
Page Views: 1,279 total, 11/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Apr 15, 2008
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

A diagonal crack splits this overhanging face. Perfect undercling fingerlocks, slopers, small technical feet, and hard pulls are all part of the fun. Start standing with dual underclings and tiny feet. Make a large move left hand to a sloper on the lip, work your feet, and follow the crack to the right. Once you grab the jugs, the topout through the notch will feel like cake. Careful not to hit the tree if you blow it.

A sit start goes at V9-10. The block on the left is not part of the problem.

Location

This problem is on a boulder sitting between the Font Boulder and the Upper Cliff. Although it practically sits on top of the Font boulder, it is best approached from the top. If you can find The Roof, keep walking towards Bean Pole and look downhill to your left.

Protection

Pad & spotter

Photos

Graham O.
  V7
Graham O.  
  V7
Onsight, great problem. The move to the crimp in the seam feels like the crux, but man that finger lock is gorgeous.

Footage starts at 6.05:
photos.google.com/share/AF1… Oct 26, 2016
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V8-
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V8-
Went to check out the sit start to this the other day and just pulling off the ground would be an accomplishment. The link up into the stand would be insane. Brett Meyers did indeed do it from a complete sit though. No squat start... I also tried a super high foot for the stand start and it worked well for me. I'll be back to try the sit in the fall. youtube.com/watch?v=BsdFd7P… Aug 11, 2016
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
Tyler, supposedly the sit is more like v11 Dec 14, 2015
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Footage of this problem begins at 7:57

vimeo.com/79334560 Nov 16, 2013
I agree that this is an excellent problem as well. Does anyone have any information on the sit? It felt very hard even with stacked pads. Perhaps it was just squat start? Sep 10, 2013
Lanky
Tired
  V8
Lanky   Tired
  V8
Agreed. I think this problem is excellent. Oct 12, 2009
Pat McGinn  
 
More fun than it looks. A hard highstep to get the good sloper. Oct 11, 2009