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Routes in Cliff Boulders

Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: not Tom
Page Views: 265 total, 8/month
Shared By: Ian McAfee on Apr 28, 2015
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This almost certainly isn't a new climb, but it took a bit of cleaning and I've never seen chalk on any of the holds nor is it in either of the guidebooks.

Grab the second set of jugs on 'Jugs' and go straight up, utilizing a high left foot, and a long lock off with a small intermediate for the left hand. Match a crimp and make another long move with the right hand to some crimps off the deck, keep it cool for the high top out as the feet are great but the hands are not so great. Other sequences are possible utilizing some worse sidepulls out right, so play around.

Can also be done from a sit, which adds a long move to the jugs but no real difficulty.

Location

Directly to the right of Chuckie's Torture.

Protection

Few pads and a spotter.

Photos

Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
 
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
 
I looked at this wall and wondered if something could/does go straight up to the right of Chuckie's Torture, and indeed it does. Highly doubtful this hasn't been climbed before, but it is fun and it doesn't seem like the holds have seen much if any traffic. Apr 28, 2015