Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Jim Woodruff
Page Views: 582 total · 8/month
Shared By: Joseph DeGaetano on Sep 5, 2013
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: South side crags access issue. Details
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details

Description

From what I've been told, Next Time is the original line up the steep cave at Area 51. Although early pioneer Eddie Begoon had already picked off the uber-classic dihedral, Replicant, no one had been able to make it up the steep walls of the cave (although, at least one person was crazy enough to try. ie. Piton 20 feet up Made in the Shade) until Jim Woodruff decided to start from the far left end (start of The Project) and move into what is now Next Time. It is important to note that nothing had been drilled or chipped yet at this cliff. Hence, the current Crossing the Line start (also the most logical way to start Next Time now) was not possible, or at least not possible at the grade of 13a. So, Woodruff's original route was au natural but traversed in from The Project start.

Ok, history lesson aside, Next Time using the Crossing the Line start is a great 13a that is characterized by bouldery sequences with good rest spots. The crux is engaging and will test your smearing skills, heel hooking flexibility, and core tension. Finish up a typical Meadow river "crack".

Location

Just right of Made in the Shade. Best to start on Crossing the Line.

Protection

Fixed draws with all new SS biners

It's a very good idea to stick clip the first fixed draw being that the initial start is probably a 18 foot V3

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