Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Gene Kistler, Howard Clark 80's
Page Views: 204 total · 7/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Apr 18, 2017
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: South side crags access issue. Details
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details

Description

Fun steep face climbing leads to a fun corner up high. If it weren't for the dirtiness, this would be a classic. Despite the grunge, it is well worth the effort.

Start at a thin flake leaning against the wall with a bolt not too far above. Climb to the bolt and continue up, eventually trending left to the ledge below the dihedral. Get some gear deep in the crack and punch it through the boulder problem. Some good stances and great stemming leads you up the corner. Once the corner ends at a bulge, reach right to get the anchors.

The first bolt isn't necessary since there are horizontal slots that would take adequate small gear. It does make it easier to find the start of the climb.

Location

Look for the obvious right facing dihedral about half way up the climb. The route is in between A Dry Soprano Circle and an unnamed 12a.

Protection

Nuts and cams from small to #2 camalot. Bring extra finger sized if you plan to skip the bolt. Long slings are mandatory for the traverse over to the corner. Rappel with a 60m from anchors at the top.

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