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Unnamed (Traddies Have Landed)
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in Area 51 (CLOSED)
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[Redacted] S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Balefire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Brayack-Howk Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cage Match S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Can't touch this S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Crossing the Line S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Dan and Bill's (Not So) Excellent Adventure S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Did you Kiss? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Drive-in Porn Theatre S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Free Range Show Poodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Full Moon Arete V7 7A+ |
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Game Theory S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hammer Time S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Hueco not Waco T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Instant Gratification S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lunate S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Made in The Shade S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Mother's Milk in a Cup S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mr. Smiley S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Natural Progression S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Natural Regression S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Next Time S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Nope, just sex S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Project, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Replicant T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Safety Word S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Saidar S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Scaphoid S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Skin Job S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Smack Down S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Stays in Vegas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unnamed (Traddies Have Landed) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Waco not Hueco S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Way of the Cougared S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Gene Kistler, Howard Clark 80's |
| Page Views: | 807 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Tom Caldwell on Apr 18, 2017 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Luc-514 |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: SOUTH SIDE CRAGS ARE CLOSED
Details
7/2021: Access in this area has always been nebulous, but recently landowners have made clear that they want NO visitors in the area. Please refrain from visiting any of the crags on the Southside of the Meadow, including those along Glade Creek (Mud Hueco) and Orange Wall. This includes drivers, cyclists, ATVers, and climbers. Please climb at another crag.
Description
Fun steep face climbing leads to a fun corner up high. If it weren't for the dirtiness, this would be a classic. Despite the grunge, it is well worth the effort.
Start at a thin flake leaning against the wall with a bolt not too far above. Climb to the bolt and continue up, eventually trending left to the ledge below the dihedral. Get some gear deep in the crack and punch it through the boulder problem. Some good stances and great stemming leads you up the corner. Once the corner ends at a bulge, reach right to get the anchors.
The first bolt isn't necessary since there are horizontal slots that would take adequate small gear. It does make it easier to find the start of the climb.
Start at a thin flake leaning against the wall with a bolt not too far above. Climb to the bolt and continue up, eventually trending left to the ledge below the dihedral. Get some gear deep in the crack and punch it through the boulder problem. Some good stances and great stemming leads you up the corner. Once the corner ends at a bulge, reach right to get the anchors.
The first bolt isn't necessary since there are horizontal slots that would take adequate small gear. It does make it easier to find the start of the climb.
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