Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Area 51

Another Tigger in the Morgue S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Balefire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cage Match S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crossing the Line S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Did you Kiss? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Range Show Poodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Game Theory S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Instant Gratification S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lunate S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Made in The Shade S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mr. Smiley S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Natural Progression S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Natural Regression S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Next Time S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Nope, just sex S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Project, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Replicant T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Safety Word S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Saider S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scaphoid S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skin Job S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Smack Down S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stays in Vegas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tigger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed (Traddies Have Landed) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Waco not Hueco S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Way of the Cougared S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mark Stevenson
Page Views: 1,416 total, 16/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 6, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


37 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
South side crags access issue. Details
Writing in chalk Details

Description

Scramble up to reach the high first bolt. Climb to a ledge, scoot out right and climb up easy rock to gain the 2nd clip at the lip of an overhang. (You don't want to blow this clip). Climb up the short left facing corner of the overhang making another quick clip and follow jugs to a stance at the base of a crack in the face. Climb the crack making good use of far spaced locks to make a long reach to the ledge before the overhanging white wall above (crux). From the ledge, head up and left aiming for a large flake above. Shimmy behind the flake to its top and escape out right on good holds. Clip the last bolt and head straight up over broken rock for about 20 feet to the finish. This is a nice route, but there's some loose rock and in the easier sections the bolts have some space between them.

Location

From the approach trail, head right for a few hundred yards along the cliff. This route begins on the right side of an open book on orange rock behind a large boulder.

Protection

9 bolts, shuts.

Photos

Peter Foster
Davis, California
 
Peter Foster   Davis, California
 
A really fun crux, surrounded by easier climbing. but the high first bolt and runout at the end keep things interesting throughout! Oct 25, 2017
Jeff Dunbar
Charlotte, NC
 
Jeff Dunbar   Charlotte, NC
 
This route can be made much safer with a few finger-sized pieces of gear (one at the bottom and one at the top). You can also stick clip the bolt in the first overhang from the sit-down ledge on the right. Jun 19, 2017
Matt Powers
Madison, VA
 
Matt Powers   Madison, VA
 
This might just be me, but I think this is a hard and scary 11b. Lots of opportunities for bad falls, and hard moves that can easily put the rope behind your legs if you are not ultra attentive. The 20' wandery runout through less-than-bulletproof stone at the top could be mitigated with more bolts. Multiple spots where a fall would cause injury. Aug 29, 2016
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
 
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
 
So, two friends had gotten hosed by this, so I thought I'd mention- at the very too, above the detached pillar, there is another bolted route that cuts off left. Don't take this; go right. Aug 24, 2013
Sam Stephens  
 
A geat route for sure, but no legacy. Worth the trip none the less. A great wam up for the harder routes or just a good ride any time. Jul 16, 2013
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
 
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
 
I've heard a lot of people compare this route t the very best .11s in the area, like Satisfaction Guaranteed, Legacy, and Bimbo Shrine. I did not think it was that good. Still, worth doing if you're in the area. Mar 16, 2012