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Routes in Area 51

Another Tigger in the Morgue S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Balefire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cage Match S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crossing the Line S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Did you Kiss? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Range Show Poodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Game Theory S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Instant Gratification S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lunate S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Made in The Shade S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mr. Smiley S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Natural Progression S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Natural Regression S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Next Time S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Nope, just sex S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Project, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Replicant T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Safety Word S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Saider S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scaphoid S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skin Job S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Smack Down S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stays in Vegas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tigger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed (Traddies Have Landed) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Waco not Hueco S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Way of the Cougared S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mark Stevenson
Page Views: 679 total, 11/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Aug 29, 2012
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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South side crags access issue. Details
Writing in chalk Details

Description

Game theory is a good alternative to the steep manufactured routes that Area 51 is known for. While it starts out steep, the angle quickly turns to vertical. The vertical section contains all of the hardest moves.

With the high first bolt stick clipped, lie back your way up a giant detached flake. There is one cruxy lock off move in the first few bolts that is a little challenging for shorter climbers. Continue tugging on large hand holds straight through an interesting top out move that delivers you to vertical terrain. A really good rest can be copped here before traversing right then heading straight up the blank face.

The vertical face is a bit perplexing, especially when there is no chalk to guide you. Expect a relentless series of slopey edges as you teeter on one foothold at a time. The climbing is balancy and technical the entire way. A noticeable crux is found 15 feet below the anchor. There are multiple ways to make it through this section so be sure to do a thorough survey of all the possible handholds.

Location

Located to the right of the main cave. Two routes start on the large detached flake. Game Theory goes straight up and a project cuts out left off the line.

Protection

9 bolts plus anchor

Photos

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Mark Paulson
  5.12c
Mark Paulson  
  5.12c
Only like the last 6 inches of the flake/crack start is questionable, and you can easily avoid it. Fun steepness with a couple big moves leads to a fabulous headwall. And with only one reinforced hold! Sep 5, 2017
Joseph DeGaetano
Fayetteville, WV
Joseph DeGaetano   Fayetteville, WV
This route is excellent and probably the best warm up for the steep cave routes to the left. Bottom 10 feet is pretty rotten rock. Aug 30, 2012