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Routes in Area 51

Another Tigger in the Morgue S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Balefire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cage Match S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crossing the Line S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Did you Kiss? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Range Show Poodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Game Theory S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
If You Lick It, She Will Come S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Instant Gratification S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lunate S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Made in The Shade S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mother's Milk in a Cup S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr. Smiley S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Natural Progression S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Natural Regression S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Next Time S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Nope, just sex S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Project, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Replicant T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Safety Word S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Saider S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scaphoid S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skin Job S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Smack Down S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stays in Vegas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tigger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed (Traddies Have Landed) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Waco not Hueco S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Way of the Cougared S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jim Woodruff
Page Views: 1,355 total · 18/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on May 13, 2012
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: South side crags access issue. Details
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Protection

9 bolts plus anchor

Location

Climbs the center of the main cave at Area 51. Look for the diagonal crack at the start and the splitter crack on the finishing headwall. Fully equipped with chain draws.

Description

You'll understand where this route gets its name from when you lower from the chains, panting and covered with scrapes from head to toe. Essentially a crack climb, this route has been done on gear, and would be quite manageable to lead on gear if it weren't for the first 4 bolts of face and roof climbing.

The Williams guidebook recommends stick clipping the second bolt. Begin on some vertical terrain, climbing past a diagonal crack to a large jug. Pump out the roof on some good flakes and get ready for the technical crux at the fourth bolt. Make your way up in a chimney for a no hands rest. Exit the chimney with some 3D moves, being sure to not get wrapped up in the rope. If you're not fully bewildered at this point the final move to a jug at the sixth bolt will definitely get you a bit confused.

At the sixth bolt you reach the offwidth crack. The rock turns bleached white and the remaining bolts are widely spaced. The higher you climb the thinner the crack becomes, tapering all the way down to thin hands. Good rests and clipping stances keep the crack from getting too pumpy. The crack section is roughly 11a.

A healthy dose of kneebaring reduces the difficulty of this pitch. Not a good pick for a rainy day since the crack above gets soaked.

Photos

ChrisHau
Hanover, NH
ChrisHau   Hanover, NH
This climb is unlike any sport route I've ever done, probably because it's an offwidth/crack climb masquerading as a sport climb.

The crack section up high protects nicely with a .4 or .5 Camalot, if the runout has you spooked.

Or just go whole hog and do the second half of the climb on gear - it actually feels safer. Apr 29, 2017
Mike Nevko
Currently Charlotte
 
Mike Nevko   Currently Charlotte
 
I agree with Chris, this is wild "sport" climb. Probably one of the most consistently try hard climbs, I've been on.

Key beta: Go full animal. Be flexible like snake, supple like a jaguar, voice of grizzly, and the cardiovascular system of a cheetah,

After the exciting chimney exit, get ready for the haul to the top. The rest of the dark climbing arts are thrown at you. Bring your crack climbing game.

This aint a standard clip up, exciting clips (including manual closing of the gates :) )
A Very, Very, Satisfying Climb. Cheers to Jim for this thing. Aug 22, 2017

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