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Waco not Hueco
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.3 from 48
votes
Routes in Area 51 (CLOSED)
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[Redacted] S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Balefire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Brayack-Howk Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cage Match S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Can't touch this S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Crossing the Line S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Dan and Bill's (Not So) Excellent Adventure S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Did you Kiss? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Drive-in Porn Theatre S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Free Range Show Poodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Full Moon Arete V7 7A+ |
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Game Theory S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hammer Time S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Hueco not Waco T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Instant Gratification S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lunate S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Made in The Shade S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Mother's Milk in a Cup S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mr. Smiley S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Natural Progression S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Natural Regression S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Next Time S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Nope, just sex S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Project, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Replicant T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Safety Word S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Saidar S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Scaphoid S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Skin Job S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Smack Down S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Stays in Vegas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unnamed (Traddies Have Landed) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Waco not Hueco S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Way of the Cougared S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Mark Stevenson |
| Page Views: | 2,828 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Steck on Aug 8, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Luc-514 |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: SOUTH SIDE CRAGS ARE CLOSED
Details
7/2021: Access in this area has always been nebulous, but recently landowners have made clear that they want NO visitors in the area. Please refrain from visiting any of the crags on the Southside of the Meadow, including those along Glade Creek (Mud Hueco) and Orange Wall. This includes drivers, cyclists, ATVers, and climbers. Please climb at another crag.
Description
Start by climbing up overhanging rock and right to reach a left leaning feature, follow the feature to a horizontal. From here, traverse a little to the right and then up and left aiming for a nice horn and a good rest. Shake out, and head right and up to a thin face (crux). Gain a nice ledge and follow a flake to the hueco. This route is pretty sustained for the grade, but very high quality.
Location
From the point where the approach trail meets the cliff, head right. Continue along the cliff passing the beautiful Replicant, 5.11d dihedral. Keep going, passing many long sport lines over orange rock and a lichen covered wall. When you come of a large flat boulder about 6 feet tall, you'll see a concentration of sport lines. Between this boulder and the wall, look for a line on orange rock with shuts to the left of a large hueco.
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