Waco not Hueco
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Mark Stevenson |
Page Views: | 2,828 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Jeremy Steck on Aug 8, 2010 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Luc-514 |
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7/2021: Access in this area has always been nebulous, but recently landowners have made clear that they want NO visitors in the area. Please refrain from visiting any of the crags on the Southside of the Meadow, including those along Glade Creek (Mud Hueco) and Orange Wall. This includes drivers, cyclists, ATVers, and climbers. Please climb at another crag.
Description
Start by climbing up overhanging rock and right to reach a left leaning feature, follow the feature to a horizontal. From here, traverse a little to the right and then up and left aiming for a nice horn and a good rest. Shake out, and head right and up to a thin face (crux). Gain a nice ledge and follow a flake to the hueco. This route is pretty sustained for the grade, but very high quality.
Location
From the point where the approach trail meets the cliff, head right. Continue along the cliff passing the beautiful Replicant, 5.11d dihedral. Keep going, passing many long sport lines over orange rock and a lichen covered wall. When you come of a large flat boulder about 6 feet tall, you'll see a concentration of sport lines. Between this boulder and the wall, look for a line on orange rock with shuts to the left of a large hueco.
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