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Waco not Hueco
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.3 from 32
votes
Routes in Area 51
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Another Tigger in the Morgue S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Balefire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cage Match S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Crossing the Line S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Did you Kiss? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Drive-in Porn Theatre S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Free Range Show Poodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Full Moon Arete V7 7A+ |
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Game Theory S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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If You Lick It, She Will Come S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Instant Gratification S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lunate S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Made in The Shade S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Mother's Milk in a Cup S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mr. Smiley S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Natural Progression S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Natural Regression S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Next Time S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Nope, just sex S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Project, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Replicant T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Safety Word S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Saider S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Scaphoid S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Skin Job S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Smack Down S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Stays in Vegas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tigger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unnamed (Traddies Have Landed) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Waco not Hueco S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Way of the Cougared S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft |
| FA: | Mark Stevenson |
| Page Views: | 1,514 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Steck on Aug 8, 2010 |
| Admins: | Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: South side crags access issue.
Details
As of now it seems that a logging company has placed boulders in the road out to the south side crags and they are impassible. This of course hinders access. Check with WaterStone on before heading out or use your own judgment.
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
This year parking along southbound highway 19 has really increased in numbers. Often, nearly 100 cars are just parked along the side of a busy four lane, 65mph highway. While it's not yet illegal (but surely will be if it continues), here are some guidelines:
- DO NOT park past the sign near the bridge. It indicates something like "no parking to the right," but actually means "no parking past this sign" (thanks DOT). This is to keep access open for emergency 4x4s that may need to descend to gorge for rescues.
-Park completely off the pavement, preferably diagonally, with vehicle rears facing away from the road. I've seen a couple cars actually back out into the highway as they exit the parking. This is stupid and dangerous.
-consider using the large gravel parking lot just off the Underwood Rd. Seriously, it only adds an extra 5 minutes of walking. You came to the Meadow for those closely bolted easy climbs that the NRG lacks, so pay your dues and walk a little, goober. Seriously, you take an extra five minutes to set up your hammock at the crag anyway, it's not a huge deal.
Local climbers and boaters have been getting increasingly irate about bad/excessive parking off of 19. If it keeps as it has been going, the likely outcome will be a simple ban on parking, with no other alternatives. Let's try to self-regulate, m'kay?
- DO NOT park past the sign near the bridge. It indicates something like "no parking to the right," but actually means "no parking past this sign" (thanks DOT). This is to keep access open for emergency 4x4s that may need to descend to gorge for rescues.
-Park completely off the pavement, preferably diagonally, with vehicle rears facing away from the road. I've seen a couple cars actually back out into the highway as they exit the parking. This is stupid and dangerous.
-consider using the large gravel parking lot just off the Underwood Rd. Seriously, it only adds an extra 5 minutes of walking. You came to the Meadow for those closely bolted easy climbs that the NRG lacks, so pay your dues and walk a little, goober. Seriously, you take an extra five minutes to set up your hammock at the crag anyway, it's not a huge deal.
Local climbers and boaters have been getting increasingly irate about bad/excessive parking off of 19. If it keeps as it has been going, the likely outcome will be a simple ban on parking, with no other alternatives. Let's try to self-regulate, m'kay?
Description
Start by climbing up overhanging rock and right to reach a left leaning feature, follow the feature to a horizontal. From here, traverse a little to the right and then up and left aiming for a nice horn and a good rest. Shake out, and head right and up to a thin face (crux). Gain a nice ledge and follow a flake to the hueco. This route is pretty sustained for the grade, but very high quality.
Location
From the point where the approach trail meets the cliff, head right. Continue along the cliff passing the beautiful Replicant, 5.11d dihedral. Keep going, passing many long sport lines over orange rock and a lichen covered wall. When you come of a large flat boulder about 6 feet tall, you'll see a concentration of sport lines. Between this boulder and the wall, look for a line on orange rock with shuts to the left of a large hueco.
Photos
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