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Routes in Area 51

Another Tigger in the Morgue S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Balefire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cage Match S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crossing the Line S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Did you Kiss? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Range Show Poodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Game Theory S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Instant Gratification S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lunate S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Made in The Shade S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mr. Smiley S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Natural Progression S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Natural Regression S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Next Time S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Nope, just sex S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Project, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Replicant T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Safety Word S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Saider S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scaphoid S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skin Job S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Smack Down S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stays in Vegas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tigger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed (Traddies Have Landed) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Waco not Hueco S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Way of the Cougared S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Lee Munson
Page Views: 542 total · 8/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on May 13, 2012
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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South side crags access issue. Details
Writing in chalk Details

Description

Made in the Shade is a fun pitch, but I wouldn't recommend it if you strongly dislike manufactured holds. Be prepared for a series of glued on handle bars.

The beginning of the pitch travels up a crack and then traverses left out the roof. Make long pumpy moves between these holds and then get ready to bear down for a lockoff crux at the eighth bolt. Natural dinner plate jugs take you to the anchor.

Location

Travels up the left side of the main cave at Area 51. Begins in a corner crack feature.

Protection

9 bolts + anchor

Photos

The BD spectra quickdraw at the 6th bolt broke under body weight today. My buddy clipped it and hung, and it snapped about 10 seconds later. Remember that all in situ nylon/spectra gear should be treated with caution! I honestly can't remember if it was clipped to a chain, or if it's the only bolt without a permanent chain, but you should definitely take a spare draw if you get on it. Sep 5, 2017
AndyJohnson
Alexandria, VA
  5.12d
AndyJohnson   Alexandria, VA
  5.12d
As of 10/18/14, a natural jug flake that used to be at the 6th bolt was sitting on a boulder at the base of the crag. From the glued-on handlebars, I clipped the 5th bolt and moved to a large flake at the lip of the next short roof. The next move was to the flake that broke off on the underside of the next short roof.

The missing flake may have been used to clip the 6th bolt. A smaller crimp is left behind where the flake used to be and is next to a larger hold on the corner. The grade is likely unchanged, as this section was not the crux, but the climbing between the 2 good rests (at the 5th bolt and 7th bolt) is probably more pumpy. Oct 21, 2014
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
 
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
 
I gave Made in the Shade a slightly higher quality star rating than Crossing the Line, since its crux is not manufactured. The crux is, in my opinion, harder than that of Crossing the Line, and actually climbs more like a route at Endless Wall (high step, lockoff) than its Area 51 neighbors do.

In the end, you just have to think of this route and Crossing the Line as the climbing version of a porn star's breasts– totally manufactured, but still a hell of a lot of fun, and even aesthetic. If you don't like manufactured routes, get on The Project or Next Time, both very quality too. Dec 31, 2013
AndyJohnson
Alexandria, VA
  5.12d
AndyJohnson   Alexandria, VA
  5.12d
I am a little conflicted about this route. I can't rationally reconcile my belief that the glued handlebars are unethical and set a disturbing precedent with my feeling of complete joy while making the moves. I give the climbing 4 stars, but the route significantly less praise given its unnatural creation.

Also, if either the detached flake or the marginally-chocked block at the start of the route fall out, it is going to be a bad day for someone. You can make it past the flake without touching it, but I needed to pull down gently on the block to get past it. Bring 3 draws for the last bolt and anchor; the anchor has open shuts. Sep 16, 2013