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Routes in The Erratic

Alpen Thunder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Big Medicine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blood Orange S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
County Ten Gunslinger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fat Bottom Girls S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Full Retard S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Heart Full of Ghosts S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
I'm a Lead Farmer, Motha' Fucker S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Medicine Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Medicine Trail Relay S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moonshine S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Pale Face Magic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pocket Hero S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Queen of England S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Queen of hearts S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rodeo queen S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soul man V7- 7A+
Swallow the Gravy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Throwin' the Houlihan S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Whoa Nelly S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wotai S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wutang S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Jesse brown
Page Views: 909 total, 17/month
Shared By: Jesse Brown on Aug 29, 2013
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

This route is amazing ! Roof is challenging

Location

To the right of "queen of hearts" . Start in the obvious center seam. Up four bolts and then move right into the meat and potatoes of the climb .

Protection

12 quick draws

Photos

- No Photos -
Flacker
Lander, WY
Flacker   Lander, WY
You go up 4 bolts, then head right into the route to the right fat bottom girls and then finish on that route through the 12- roof. The straight up is put out to pasture 14b I believe Sep 6, 2017
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
Bones' comment may be due to the fact that the line overlay in the latest guide is incorrect. Going out the gut of the main roof (as is indicated in the photo) is 5.14. This thing definitely goes. (but felt a little stiff for the grade, though I'm bad at roofs) Make sure you step right after clipping the 4th bolt. Sep 4, 2017
Bones Perkins
Rexburg, ID
Bones Perkins   Rexburg, ID
This route may have at one point been a rad 12b, but there are definitely missing holds at the roof. It's still doable and quite fun up to right under the roof, but past that, it's pretty improbable through the first/main section of the roof. Maybe needs an updated anchor under the roof to utilize the fun face up to it, while keeping it realistic. Aug 1, 2016
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.12b
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.12b
Great route. Super fun climbing down low to not-too-burly (for the Iris) climbing through the roof. For me this is a funner version of American Beauty (I find the crux huge move/toss at the end of American Beauty to be thuggy and unpleasant). I always wondered why this line had not been bolted, so I'm glad to see someone took the initiative. Thanks Jesse! Jul 29, 2014