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Routes in The Erratic

Alpen Thunder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Big Medicine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blood Orange S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
County Ten Gunslinger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fat Bottom Girls S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Full Retard S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Heart Full of Ghosts S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
I'm a Lead Farmer, Motha' Fucker S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Medicine Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Medicine Trail Relay S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moonshine S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Pale Face Magic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pocket Hero S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Queen of England S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Queen of hearts S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rodeo queen S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soul man V7- 7A+
Swallow the Gravy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Throwin' the Houlihan S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Whoa Nelly S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wotai S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wutang S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Steve Scott and John Tuttle (1991)
Page Views: 689 total, 8/month
Shared By: J. Albers on Jun 29, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

Fun route that is worth doing. Slab crux low to fun and steeper pocket pulling up high.

Location

Find the grey slab of rock on the wall to the left of Wotai. Big Medicine is the rightmost of the routes in this wall (Pale Face Magic is around the corner to the left on the same formation).

Protection

Bolts to a a two bolt anchor.

Photos

King Tut
Citrus Heights
 
King Tut   Citrus Heights
 
In another 20 years you will grasp the wisdom of not over bolting every route to make them more accessible. There is a finite number of times something can be climbed before it is garbage, esp on Dolomite. Entire climbing areas in Europe on limestone are being abandoned because they are becoming too slick from high traffic. Apr 9, 2017
J. Albers
Colorado
 
J. Albers   Colorado
 
King Tut wrote: Hey guy, Steve and I put up that route and if you don't like it stay off.

When you gain some experience at Wild Iris you will realize that over bolted and over cleaned routes are becoming greasy and slick. This route is made so that competent leaders can do it, not your grandmother. Consequently, its life as a good slab climb will be many years longer than if it was bolted to your inexperienced taste.

Good lord John (yes, I know who you are), did someone pee in your Wheaties this morning? First off, I DO like your route and I first lead it when I was new to climbing nearly two decades ago. So yeah, its safe for a competent leader. If you reread my post, you will notice that I clearly state that I don't have any right to alter your route. I was simply trying to warn inexperienced leaders about the decking possibility, so there is no need to go all nuclear on my comment.

And my comment about Sam Lightner adding a bolt when (likely not if) your route gets rebolted is in reference to the fact that bolts were added to other "run out" routes at the Iris when Sam upgraded the hardware to glue-ins (see comments for this route mountainproject.com/v/mutt-… ). Did Sam add a bolt without consent of the FA? No he did not. Why? Because Sam is an upstanding guy with respect for other's creations. That said, I happen to know the FA and I personally talked with Tom about his route and the bolting. Turns out that Tom was happy to have Sam add a bolt and I relayed this info to Sam and the route is now "safer". Your route certainly does not have to have the same thing done to it if you don't want, which is totally fine.

Anyway, thanks for thinking that I'm a "grandma" that doesn't know how to slab climb. Little did you know that I love hard slab even if its runout AND I have been climbing at the Iris for almost two decades, so I guess most of your comments are ill-advised, huh? But you know, its certainly your right to go ahead and ignorantly and rudely talk trash to someone you don't know. Bravo.

p.s. I added your name to the FA. Feb 1, 2017
King Tut
Citrus Heights
 
King Tut   Citrus Heights
 
Hey guy, Steve and I put up that route and if you don't like it stay off.

When you gain some experience at Wild Iris you will realize that over bolted and over cleaned routes are becoming greasy and slick. This route is made so that competent leaders can do it, not your grandmother. Consequently, its life as a good slab climb will be many years longer than if it was bolted to your inexperienced taste. Feb 1, 2017
J. Albers
Colorado
 
J. Albers   Colorado
 
This was a common lead for me when I was learning to climb and I never thought much about the bolting job (this probably has more to do with being young and stupid, rather than competent and aware). However, I did this route again recently and it occurred to me that new leaders should be aware that they need to be very solid at the second clip, because if you fell at the clip with any amount of rope out, then you would surely deck. Perhaps this should be left as a testament to the time period it was put up, but then again, newer leaders might appreciate an upgrade. I would "fix" it myself, but I don't feel I have the right. Perhaps Blanco or Lightner will consider it when its time to rebolt. Jul 8, 2013