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Routes in The Erratic

Alpen Thunder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Big Medicine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blood Orange S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
County Ten Gunslinger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fat Bottom Girls S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Full Retard S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Heart Full of Ghosts S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
I'm a Lead Farmer, Motha' Fucker S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Medicine Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Medicine Trail Relay S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moonshine S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Pale Face Magic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pocket Hero S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Queen of England S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Queen of hearts S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rodeo queen S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soul man V7- 7A+
Swallow the Gravy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Throwin' the Houlihan S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Whoa Nelly S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wotai S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wutang S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Jeff Wendt, 2002
Page Views: 428 total · 5/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jun 23, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description [Suggest Change]

This line makes for a fine warm up, with relatively big holds on steep terrain. However, the rock is not quite up to par for the area, and the movement is somewhat awkward.

Start on the left, slapping up opposing features to reach big edges over a rooflet. Hidden pockets lead to the arching flaking, and an awkward lieback on big holds along this flake works up to easier terrain and the anchor.

Location [Suggest Change]

The next route left of the classic "Wotai", climbing the east face immediately left of the buttress.

Protection [Suggest Change]

~5 bolts, 2BA.

Photos

punkencack
  5.10b
punkencack  
  5.10b
This climb is actually pretty good, however, it is not rated 5.11b. Judicious stemming downgrades it to a straightforward 5.10b. In addition, much of the so-called awkwardness described above is non-existent if stemmed. Frankly, pretty much the bottom half of the route is a cinch if you use your feet. This is a good warm up for Wotai. Jun 30, 2011
Brian Fabel
  5.11b
Brian Fabel  
  5.11b
Start on the right side of the prow, punkencack Jul 18, 2016

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