Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Jeff Wendt, 2002
Page Views: 474 total · 5/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jun 23, 2011
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

This line makes for a fine warm up, with relatively big holds on steep terrain. However, the rock is not quite up to par for the area, and the movement is somewhat awkward.

Start on the left, slapping up opposing features to reach big edges over a rooflet. Hidden pockets lead to the arching flaking, and an awkward lieback on big holds along this flake works up to easier terrain and the anchor.

Location

The next route left of the classic "Wotai", climbing the east face immediately left of the buttress.

Protection

~5 bolts, 2BA.

Photos

punkencack
  5.10b
punkencack  
  5.10b
This climb is actually pretty good, however, it is not rated 5.11b. Judicious stemming downgrades it to a straightforward 5.10b. In addition, much of the so-called awkwardness described above is non-existent if stemmed. Frankly, pretty much the bottom half of the route is a cinch if you use your feet. This is a good warm up for Wotai. Jun 30, 2011
Brian Fabel
Lander, WY
  5.11b
Brian Fabel   Lander, WY
  5.11b
Start on the right side of the prow, punkencack Jul 18, 2016
Franck Vee
  5.11c
Franck Vee  
  5.11c
This is very bouldery start at 11b (if starting right of the prow, on the great hand jug). I'd give it a 11c. It gets easier after 2/3rd bolt but still demands good body position.

For a change from typical Wild Iris routes, this is mostly edges, crimps & flakes with rather few pockets. Makes for a different style. Jul 19, 2018