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Routes in The Erratic

Alpen Thunder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Big Medicine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blood Orange S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
County Ten Gunslinger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fat Bottom Girls S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Full Retard S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Heart Full of Ghosts S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
I'm a Lead Farmer, Motha' Fucker S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Medicine Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Medicine Trail Relay S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moonshine S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Pale Face Magic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pocket Hero S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Queen of England S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Queen of hearts S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rodeo queen S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soul man V7- 7A+
Swallow the Gravy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Throwin' the Houlihan S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Whoa Nelly S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wotai S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wutang S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Steve Scott
Page Views: 1,202 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 19, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

A fun line but quite sharp, do it when you have fresh tough skin - not a good 3rd day on route! Climbs easily up the dihedral, gradually easing right onto the arete. Prepare for the crux when you are fully on the arete and making a long move. Powerful and possibly dynamic. Fun despite the pain.

Location

Located down and around the corner from the handful of routes near Wotai. You'll be scrambling around a few large boulders to get to the flat base near the dihedral immediately left of the blunt arete that is Medicine Man.

Protection

7 or 8 bolts ?? to anchors

Photos

A. Bandos
Broomfield
 
A. Bandos   Broomfield
 
Good line. Keep cranking to get to better holds. There is a (new?) 11d immediately to the left of this. The rock looks suspect from the ground, but it is solid. Jul 11, 2017
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.11c
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.11c
My 2 cents say that this route is 11c if you climb directly up the bolt line, i.e. staying off the crack and stem at the beginning. Fun route done this way. May 12, 2010
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
I don't know about .11c/d. I've never onsighted anything harder than 5.10 and cruised the crux of this only to fall off the upper section becuase the sun was in my eyes and I couldn't see where the pockets were. This was after at least 5 pitches of .10 and up climbing. May 20, 2009
David Shiembob
slc, ut
 
David Shiembob   slc, ut
 
Really good. 6 bolts actually. Leave the biner that's on the anchor. Sep 3, 2007