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Routes in The Erratic

Alpen Thunder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Big Medicine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blood Orange S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
County Ten Gunslinger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fat Bottom Girls S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Full Retard S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Heart Full of Ghosts S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
I'm a Lead Farmer, Motha' Fucker S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Medicine Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Medicine Trail Relay S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Moonshine S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Pale Face Magic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pocket Hero S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Queen of England S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Queen of hearts S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rodeo queen S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soul man V7- 7A+
Swallow the Gravy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Throwin' the Houlihan S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Whoa Nelly S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wotai S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wutang S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Jonathan Siegrist
Page Views: 1,908 total · 30/month
Shared By: Jonathan Siegrist on Aug 1, 2013
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

A rad little route on the Erratic. Powerful, very sustained, and enjoyable the whole way on underclings, pockets and a few edges. Doesn't give up 'til the very last move. A little easier than it's neighbor 'Young Girl' and just as good!

Location

just left of 'When I was a Young Girl, I had me a Cowboy' 13a

Protection

4 bolts and ring anchors

Photos

Jesse Brown
Laramie,wy
5.12d
Jesse Brown   Laramie,wy
5.12d
An important clipping hold in between bolt 2 and 3 has broke leaving the route harder. 12d I would say. Aug 10, 2013
Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
  5.12c
Jonathan Siegrist   his truck
  5.12c
which hold was it Jesse? Aug 14, 2013
Arthur
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Arthur   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Climbed it Saturday, felt pretty accurate for new school 12c, definitely not any harder than that. Jul 18, 2016
Jacob Toppen
  5.12c
Jacob Toppen  
  5.12c
I sent this route last week, feels like full value 12c, definitely not 12d. Thank you Jonathan for bolting this fun line! I would recommend the topping out after the send! Jul 23, 2016
Zane Dordai
Salt Lake City
 
Zane Dordai   Salt Lake City
 
Beta: Apparently some folks stick clip the third, the clip is probably the hardest move on the route and if you blow it without a super solid belay you'll probably hit the ground. Other than that, this route is fantastic; it is far friendlier on the fingers than its neighbor. Felt like benchmark 12c to me with the clip included. Thanks to the FA, blows my mind that this section of cliff went unbolted for so long. Jul 24, 2018

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