Elevation: 8,850 ft
GPS: 42.59, -108.74 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 35,339 total · 209/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 19, 2006 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

Description

This cool mostly shady crag hides way out on the back side of the Iris. You'll generally have the place to yourself and find a small number of classic lines from 5.10 to 5.14. Wotai (10d), Medicine Man (11c), When I was a Young Girl.. (13a), and Throwin' the Houlihan (14a) are the must do if you can lines out here.

Getting There

Shorter approach from Aspen Glade camp/parking:

Start hiking as for Aspen Glade, using a small, well traveled forest trail just uphill from parking. Exit forest and switchback up a meadow to crest a small ridge. Go right (left goes to Aspen Glade). Follow this trail for about 5-10 min. The trail will lead directly into a forest.

Longer approach from main parking:

Walk towards the main iris, staying left and high at all junctions until you pass the Main Wall on the left. Or, approach from the main wall by hiking up the wall and joining the trail past the Rising from the Plains section. Continue on the faint trail until you start to see the mostly sunny cliffs of Gun Street and Aspen Glade in the distance, look for a faint trail off to the right (becomes most distinct shortly) heading into the pine forest with not much rock immediately visible. Soon the Erratic will show its impressive white clean face with the 14 routes on the first steep section. Mono pocket pulls anyone?

24 Total Climbs

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Location: The Erratic Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Erratic

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 99
Pocket Hero
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 59
Big Medicine
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 38
Medicine Trail Relay
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 14
Queen of England
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 165
Wotai
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 45
Pale Face Magic
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 13
Swallow the Gravy
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 52
I'm a Lead Farmer, Motha' Fucker
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 74
Medicine Man
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
Alpen Thunder
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 31
Queen of hearts
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 26
Blood Orange
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 15
Rodeo queen
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 27
County Ten Gunslinger
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 43
When I Was a Young Girl, I Had M…
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pocket Hero
 99
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Big Medicine
 59
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Medicine Trail Relay
 38
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Queen of England
 14
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Wotai
 165
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Pale Face Magic
 45
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Swallow the Gravy
 13
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
I'm a Lead Farmer, Motha' F…
 52
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Medicine Man
 74
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Alpen Thunder
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Queen of hearts
 31
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Blood Orange
 26
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Rodeo queen
 15
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
County Ten Gunslinger
 27
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
When I Was a Young Girl, I…
 43
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
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