Elevation: 8,850 ft
GPS: 42.59, -108.74 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 23,511 total · 154/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 19, 2006
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg
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Description

This cool mostly shady crag hides way out on the back side of the Iris. You'll generally have the place to yourself and find a small number of classic lines from 5.10 to 5.14. Wotai (10d), Medicine Man (11c), When I was a Young Girl.. (13a), and Throwin' the Houlihan (14a) are the must do if you can lines out here.

Getting There

Walk towards the main iris, staying left and high at all junctions until you pass the Main Wall on the left. Or, approach from the main wall by hiking up the wall and joining the trail past the Rising from the Plains section. Continue on the faint trail until you start to see the mostly sunny cliffs of Gun Street and Aspen Glade in the distance, look for a faint trail off to the right (becomes most distinct shortly) heading into the pine forest with not much rock immediately visible. Soon the Erratic will show its impressive white clean face with the 14 routes on the first steep section. Mono pocket pulls anyone?

23 Total Climbs

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Location: The Erratic Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Erratic

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 24
Medicine Trail Relay
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 57
Pocket Hero
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Queen of England
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 112
Wotai
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 32
Pale Face Magic
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 10
Swallow the Gravy
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 28
I'm a Lead Farmer, Motha' Fucker
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 55
Medicine Man
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 8
Full Retard
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Alpen Thunder
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 19
Queen of hearts
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 11
Blood Orange
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
Rodeo queen
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 21
County Ten Gunslinger
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 28
When I Was a Young Girl, I Had M…
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Medicine Trail Relay
 24
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Pocket Hero
 57
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Queen of England
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Wotai
 112
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Pale Face Magic
 32
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Swallow the Gravy
 10
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
I'm a Lead Farmer, Motha' F…
 28
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Medicine Man
 55
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Full Retard
 8
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Alpen Thunder
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Queen of hearts
 19
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Blood Orange
 11
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Rodeo queen
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
County Ten Gunslinger
 21
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
When I Was a Young Girl, I…
 28
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
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