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Elevation: 8,850 ft 2,697 m
GPS: 42.5904, -108.7396
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 59,707 total · 275/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 19, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson
Warning Access Issue: 2024 RAPTORS NESTING AT COWBOY POETRY: PLEASE READ! DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This cool mostly shady crag hides way out on the back side of the Iris. You'll generally have the place to yourself and find a small number of classic lines from 5.10 to 5.14. Wotai (10d), Medicine Man (11c), When I was a Young Girl.. (13a), and Throwin' the Houlihan (14a) are the must do if you can lines out here.

Getting There Suggest change

Shorter approach from Aspen Glade camp/parking:

Start hiking as for Aspen Glade, using a small, well traveled forest trail just uphill from parking. Exit forest and switchback up a meadow to crest a small ridge. Go right (left goes to Aspen Glade). Follow this trail for about 5-10 min. The trail will lead directly into a forest.

Longer approach from main parking:

Walk towards the main iris, staying left and high at all junctions until you pass the Main Wall on the left. Or, approach from the main wall by hiking up the wall and joining the trail past the Rising from the Plains section. Continue on the faint trail until you start to see the mostly sunny cliffs of Gun Street and Aspen Glade in the distance, look for a faint trail off to the right (becomes most distinct shortly) heading into the pine forest with not much rock immediately visible. Soon the Erratic will show its impressive white clean face with the 14 routes on the first steep section. Mono pocket pulls anyone?

28 Total Climbs

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Location: The Erratic Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Erratic

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 242
Pocket Hero
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 97
Medicine Trail Relay
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 82
Queen of England
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 320
Wotai
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 85
Pale Face Magic
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 72
Whoa Nelly
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 124
I'm a Lead Farmer, Motha' Fucker
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 157
Medicine Man
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 63
Queen of Hearts
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 48
Blood Orange
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 46
Rodeo Queen
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 32
County Ten Gunslinger
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 8
Fat Bottom Girls
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 77
When I Was a Young Girl, I Had M…
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 7
Throwin' the Houlihan
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pocket Hero
 242
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Medicine Trail Relay
 97
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Queen of England
 82
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Wotai
 320
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Pale Face Magic
 85
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Whoa Nelly
 72
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
I'm a Lead Farmer, Motha' F…
 124
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Medicine Man
 157
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Queen of Hearts
 63
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Blood Orange
 48
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Rodeo Queen
 46
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
County Ten Gunslinger
 32
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Fat Bottom Girls
 8
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
When I Was a Young Girl, I…
 77
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Throwin' the Houlihan
 7
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Erratic »

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