Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Amy Skinner
Page Views: 6,477 total · 42/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 19, 2006
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description

Good stone, mostly pretty movement on a fairly steep wall. Starts with inobvious bouldery crux on the many to choose from -- all face the wrong way small holds to a jug just above the 1st clip. From here big movement on decent holds leads to a several cruxes up high. You'll find one of the coolest slopers at Iris before the chains.

Location

Located on the main Erratic, just left of a trio or quartet of 14's. Starts on the small sloping shelf on the left side of the wall.

Protection

5 or 6 clips to anchors, possibly including lowering biners. Clip initial low bolts to avoid being strung out to dry and possibly stick clip the low 2nd bolt.

Photos

Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
I think Amy Skinner did the FA of this, back before she was Amy Skinner. She climbs this in the original "Masters of Stone" - the greatest climbing film ever made. Aug 18, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
I would call the sloper more "heartbreaking" than "cool"! A truly excellent route, though sharp as hell. I'm surprised by the star ratings. This is one of the most classic & well-known 5.13s at The Wild Iris. Its also one of the only hard routes with more than 5 hard moves. Sep 8, 2009
Bones Perkins
Rexburg, ID
  5.13a
Bones Perkins   Rexburg, ID
  5.13a
I'm ALMOST speechless about this one. But one word that I can easily describe it with is STIIIIIIFF!!! And quality. And rad. And gnarly. And Skinnertastic. Etc. Okay, you can say a lot of good about this line. Jul 16, 2012
Will Barnes
Edmonton, AB
 
Will Barnes   Edmonton, AB
 
Agreed, awesome route with an utterly heart-breaking finish. Also be careful around the third bolt, it's about a centimeter out of the wall now from people whipping on it (maybe time for a new one there). Aug 24, 2013
DB Cee
Chattanooga, TN
DB Cee   Chattanooga, TN
This route couldn't be 65ft if it tried! Sep 22, 2015
Fink Fink
Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
Fink Fink   Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
Almost everyone I come across at the Iris seems to butcher the name. It's a pretty direct reference to the song "Angel From Montgomery" by the legendary John Prine (a contemporary/inspiration of the likes of Bob Dylan, Joan Baez, Kris Kristofferson, Johnny Cash, Roger Waters, ...). Putting pretty much anything by John Prine on the jukebox is a surefire way to make friends in a Wyoming bar.

The lyrics of the third verse go:

When I was a young girl, well, I had me a cowboy
He weren't much to look at, just free rambling man
But that was a long time and no matter how I try
The years just flow by like a broken down dam.


Angel From Montgomery Sep 11, 2017