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Routes in The Erratic

Alpen Thunder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Big Medicine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blood Orange S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
County Ten Gunslinger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fat Bottom Girls S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Full Retard S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Heart Full of Ghosts S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
I'm a Lead Farmer, Motha' Fucker S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Medicine Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Medicine Trail Relay S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moonshine S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Pale Face Magic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pocket Hero S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Queen of England S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Queen of hearts S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rodeo queen S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soul man V7- 7A+
Swallow the Gravy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Throwin' the Houlihan S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Whoa Nelly S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wotai S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wutang S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Amy Skinner
Page Views: 5,304 total, 39/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 19, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route

21 Opinions

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Good stone, mostly pretty movement on a fairly steep wall. Starts with inobvious bouldery crux on the many to choose from -- all face the wrong way small holds to a jug just above the 1st clip. From here big movement on decent holds leads to a several cruxes up high. You'll find one of the coolest slopers at Iris before the chains.


Located on the main Erratic, just left of a trio or quartet of 14's. Starts on the small sloping shelf on the left side of the wall.


5 or 6 clips to anchors, possibly including lowering biners. Clip initial low bolts to avoid being strung out to dry and possibly stick clip the low 2nd bolt.
Fink Fink
Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
Fink Fink   Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
Almost everyone I come across at the Iris seems to butcher the name. It's a pretty direct reference to the song "Angel From Montgomery" by the legendary John Prine (a contemporary/inspiration of the likes of Bob Dylan, Joan Baez, Kris Kristofferson, Johnny Cash, Roger Waters, ...). Putting pretty much anything by John Prine on the jukebox is a surefire way to make friends in a Wyoming bar.

The lyrics of the third verse go:

When I was a young girl, well, I had me a cowboy
He weren't much to look at, just free rambling man
But that was a long time and no matter how I try
The years just flow by like a broken down dam.

Angel From Montgomery Sep 11, 2017
Blake Cash
Chattanooga, TN
Blake Cash   Chattanooga, TN
This route couldn't be 65ft if it tried! Sep 22, 2015
Will Barnes
Edmonton, AB
Will Barnes   Edmonton, AB
Agreed, awesome route with an utterly heart-breaking finish. Also be careful around the third bolt, it's about a centimeter out of the wall now from people whipping on it (maybe time for a new one there). Aug 24, 2013
Bones Perkins
Rexburg, ID
Bones Perkins   Rexburg, ID
I'm ALMOST speechless about this one. But one word that I can easily describe it with is STIIIIIIFF!!! And quality. And rad. And gnarly. And Skinnertastic. Etc. Okay, you can say a lot of good about this line. Jul 16, 2012
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
I would call the sloper more "heartbreaking" than "cool"! A truly excellent route, though sharp as hell. I'm surprised by the star ratings. This is one of the most classic & well-known 5.13s at The Wild Iris. Its also one of the only hard routes with more than 5 hard moves. Sep 8, 2009
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
I think Amy Skinner did the FA of this, back before she was Amy Skinner. She climbs this in the original "Masters of Stone" - the greatest climbing film ever made. Aug 18, 2009