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Routes in The Erratic

Alpen Thunder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Big Medicine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blood Orange S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
County Ten Gunslinger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fat Bottom Girls S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Full Retard S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Heart Full of Ghosts S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
I'm a Lead Farmer, Motha' Fucker S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Medicine Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Medicine Trail Relay S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moonshine S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Pale Face Magic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pocket Hero S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Queen of England S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Queen of hearts S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rodeo queen S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soul man V7- 7A+
Swallow the Gravy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Throwin' the Houlihan S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Whoa Nelly S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wotai S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wutang S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Melissa Quigley
Page Views: 1,611 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 19, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

Stellar Wild Iris line. Climbs up an easy left leaning crack before entering into the business on the face above. Doesn't let off much from here to the anchors. Great climbing.

Location

Not immediately at the erratic, walk a few dozen yards down into the forest (trail doesn't stay next to the broken walls). The next small wall holds Wotai and handful of other routes. Wotai starts off of a large block at the base of the left leaning crack. There is a runout 11b on the face to the right. Also there are several slabby 10's and 11's on the small wall to the left, and just lower near the large boulders around the corner is the arete line that starts in the dihedral Medicine Man (11c).

Protection

6 or 7 bolts to anchors.

Photos

Fink Fink
Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
 
Fink Fink   Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
 
Very easily overlooked (why would you walk to the erratic if you're only climbing 5.10 / if you're seeking out routes at the erratic, you're probably not interested in a "lowly" 5.10). That being said, I think this is probably my favorite 10 at the Iris. Very quality. Would be worth well worth the walk to just ogle Throwin' the Houlihan and to climb this.

FYI, a bit of research says that a "Wotai" is like a guardian spirit / animal, except that it's a guardian rock. Good name. Jun 8, 2016