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Early Access
Routes in Second Tier
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Chem Trail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Drunken Pilot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ejector Seat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Little Black Box T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Scoop Up a Little Sky T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stand By T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stress Fracture T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Touch and Go T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 40.17425, -105.36141 |
| FA: | T. Bubb, C. Parks, 8/27/13 |
| Page Views: | 781 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Aug 28, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
This is a mellow and reasonable climb on-par with the quality of the neighboring routes on this ledge... once the dead bushes were cleaned out of it.
Step up one move and place a good medium/large stopper in a small crack on the left of the main crack. Stand up and start jamming above (2-3.5" cams), heading up the good handcrack to the big blocks that bulge at the top. Up top, step up and left and over the top. A good directional or anchor can be hand in a vertical crack behind the ledge which takes 2-2.5" cams.
Location
This route is on the right-most and shortest of 3 buttresses of the second tier.
Approach from the ledge below the second buttress and go up and right (5.6 scramble) to a second, slightly higher ledge. Little Black Box, Stand By, and Drunken Pilot (L->R) all start from this ledge. Drunken Pilot is the handcrack to the right of the split cracks of LBB and SB, with the remains of a small shrub 2 meters up. (This has been largely cleaned.)
Protection
A medium/large nut, followed by hand-sized cams. You can rap as for Little Black Box, or even belay there after a directional.
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