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Routes in Second Tier

Chem Trail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Drunken Pilot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ejector Seat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Little Black Box T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scoop Up a Little Sky T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stand By T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stress Fracture T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Touch and Go T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: A. Pon and E. VanDoren, 2001
Page Views: 475 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 28, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Of the routes that we did on Pilot Knob, this was the best. There are two starts, an 8 (easier) or the 9+ (recommended). To do the 9+ start, head up under a roof to the right of Touch and Go and pull through it on the right side onto a face and past a very large wedged block. Protect this and continue up into a crack system slightly to the right, ending after some horizontals. Clip a single bolt and do the second crux (8+) on face moves to reach a bolted anchor.

Location

The upper section of Pilot Knob has two distinct climbable rocks. The left one is arrived at from just below, climbing any of the lower tier's pitches. An obvious left-facing corner, Touch and Go, lies just above. Scoop Up a Little Sky climbs a crack system and face just meter or two right around the arete from that corner.

Protection

A standard rack to 3".

Photos

Justin Brunson
Broomfield CO
  5.9+ PG13
Justin Brunson   Broomfield CO
  5.9+ PG13
I belayed Nate up this one. You're right-- he meant that the anchors don't have any lowering hardware, as he was on TR from the bolts you describe :)

Crux was scary for me, hearing that holds may have broken is good news for my ego. Mar 25, 2015
JFM
  5.9+
JFM  
  5.9+
Nate, I think you've got this one confused with another route if you're saying there are not bolted anchors at the end of this one. There are 2 bolt/hangers at the top of the pillar that this route is on -- they do not have lowering rings however. Easy enough to walk over to Stress Fracture, though.

Also, perhaps some holds have broken off since the Gillett guide came out (as evidenced by "new" exposed rock near the bolt) -- I agree with Nate (if we're talking about the same route) that the section near the bolt is definitely harder than the 5.8+ that Gillett (and Tony B.) gives it. Aug 18, 2013
Nate Muncy
Thornton, CO
  5.9+
Nate Muncy   Thornton, CO
  5.9+
No bolted anchors, had to lower from stress fracture.
2nd crux by the bolt is 5.9+ as well - thin and tenuous.
Fun. Jul 29, 2013