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Routes in Second Tier

Chem Trail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Drunken Pilot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ejector Seat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Little Black Box T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scoop Up a Little Sky T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stand By T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stress Fracture T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Touch and Go T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: A. Pon, 2001
Page Views: 60 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 28, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is not a bad climb, per se, but being so short, it is hard to reccomend pursuit of this over something else. But once you are at the area - you may as well if you have some spare time.

Access the ledge on the upper Northwest face of the second tier, and spot a small stem-box that goes past a bush to a crack that splits to left and right. Climb up past the bush (5.7, crux), and head left up the crack on that side to the top. There is a second 5.7 move near the top. Clip the chain and bolt with slings and lower off.

Location

This route is on the right-most and shortest of 3 buttresses of the second tier Approach from the ledge below the second buttress and go up and right (5.6 scramble) to a second, slightly higher ledge. Little Black Box, Stand By, and Drunken Pilot (L->R) all start from this ledge. Little Black Box is the left side of a split crack that starts with a stem, Stand By is the cleaner right side of the split crack, and Drunken Pilot is the handcrack to the right of those about 3 meters.

Protection

A single set of cams and a few slings.

The second bolt anchor up top needs some chain or the rap is just one bolt. I didn't have any with me.

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