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Routes in Second Tier

Chem Trail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Drunken Pilot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ejector Seat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Little Black Box T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scoop Up a Little Sky T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stand By T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stress Fracture T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Touch and Go T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: A. Pon, 2001
Page Views: 283 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 28, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This climb presents a fairly distinct crux in that there is really only one or two moves at the grade. The rest is easier. Short climbers might find it more challenging, however, as the crux is on good holds that could be reachy for them.

Climb up into the corner, protecting whenever possible, and reach up to surprisingly good holds on the right side. Move up into the corner and easier climbing to the top and a bolted anchor.

Location

The upper section of Pilot Knob has two distinct climbable rocks. The left one is arrived at from just below, climbing any of the lower tier's pitches. The obvious, left-facing corner above is Touch and Go. Stress Fracture is the hand crack just a meter or two left of that corner.

Protection

Standard light rack. The pro is not always right where you want it, but it appears in unexpected places and is adequate for a safe ascent.

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