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Routes in Second Tier

Chem Trail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Drunken Pilot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ejector Seat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Little Black Box T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scoop Up a Little Sky T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stand By T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stress Fracture T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Touch and Go T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: A. Pon, 2001
Page Views: 61 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 28, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This variation of Little Black Box is slightly cleaner, easier, and more fun than the original line. If you find yourself on the access the ledge on the upper Northwest face of the second tier, you may as well do all 3 of these routes.

Just to the right of the scramble-up, spot a small stem-box that goes past a bush to a crack that splits to left and right. Climb up past the bush (5.7, crux) and head right up the crack on that side to the top. The rock here is cleaner and less bushy. Clip the chain and bolt with slings and lower off.

Location

This route is on the right-most ans shortest of 3 buttresses of the second tier Approach from the eldge below the second buttress and go up and right (5.6 scramble) to a second, slightly higher ledge. Little Black Box, Stand By, and Drunken Pilot (L->R) all start from this ledge. Stand By is the right side of a split crack that starts with a stem, Little Black Box is the dirtier line just left, and Drunken Pilot is the handcrack to the right of those about 3 meters.

Protection

A single set of cams from small to 3.5".

The anchor up top is a bolt with chain and a plain hanger - if you want to rap back down on both bolts, as opposed to 1, leave a bit of webbing or chain on the second bolt (12").

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