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Areas in Pilot Knob

Lower Tier 7 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Second Tier 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Description

A primarily shady crag, Pilot Knob faces Northwest. With that aspect comes some of the usual suspects: vegetation, lichen, moss, etc., on some of the crag. Other parts of the crag are clean, strikingly good stone, and good climbing. This applies particularly the upper tier. Despite the short (and presently dry) approach, lack of ivy, and solid stone, and moderate grades, this crag hasn't seemed to have gotten popular. I suppose it is still waiting to be discovered by the masses. Perhaps the lower pitches that gate the best climbing above keep the masses away, but it is, nonetheless, a great crag for a pair of climbers to dedicate a day to.

The better climbs there were the following moderates:

Stress Fracture (5.7)
Touch and Go (5.7+)
Scoop Up a Little Sky ("5.8+" (+++))
Ejector Seat (5.9+).

Getting There

Drive 7.3 miles up canyon to mile 25.8. Park in a long paved pullout on the left and look across the creek to see the 'Stewardess Convention Crag.' Just downstream of that, back down the hill to your left, is an obvious pinnacle around which the stream bends Southward. That is the Pilot Knob.

While the traditional approach is to wade the stream below Stewardess and then walk down a ways to Pilot Knob, presently there is a very large tree that has fallen across the stream and one can climb into its end, then walk "down" the tree to cross the creek completely dry. From there, it is a 3 minute walk to the base of the crag.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pilot Knob

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Eva Raphael
Boulder, CO
Eva Raphael   Boulder, CO
It seems the bomber tree bridge did not survive The Flood. Now we wade across the river. There is also a small pullout closer to the crag than the paved parking area with the above coordinates. Sep 12, 2015
Justin Brunson
Broomfield CO
Justin Brunson   Broomfield CO
As of July '13, the tree crossing is still bomber. Jul 28, 2013
JFM
JFM  
In his excellent guide from Sharp End Publishing, Gillett offers the advice that, if you wish to climb the "Third Tier," you can, but it's not worth the time; and he suggests eschewing the rap bolts for the 4th-class downclimb.

Also of note: Parking GPS coords: 40.173458,-105.362147 Jun 30, 2013

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