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Early Access
Routes in Second Tier
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Chem Trail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Drunken Pilot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ejector Seat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Little Black Box T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Scoop Up a Little Sky T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stand By T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stress Fracture T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Touch and Go T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 40.17425, -105.36141 |
| FA: | A. Pon, 2001 |
| Page Views: | 735 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Aug 28, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
This variation of Little Black Box is slightly cleaner, easier, and more fun than the original line. If you find yourself on the access the ledge on the upper Northwest face of the second tier, you may as well do all 3 of these routes.
Just to the right of the scramble-up, spot a small stem-box that goes past a bush to a crack that splits to left and right. Climb up past the bush (5.7, crux) and head right up the crack on that side to the top. The rock here is cleaner and less bushy. Clip the chain and bolt with slings and lower off.
Location
This route is on the right-most ans shortest of 3 buttresses of the second tier Approach from the eldge below the second buttress and go up and right (5.6 scramble) to a second, slightly higher ledge. Little Black Box, Stand By, and Drunken Pilot (L->R) all start from this ledge. Stand By is the right side of a split crack that starts with a stem, Little Black Box is the dirtier line just left, and Drunken Pilot is the handcrack to the right of those about 3 meters.
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