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Routes in Second Tier

Chem Trail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Drunken Pilot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ejector Seat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Little Black Box T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scoop Up a Little Sky T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stand By T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stress Fracture T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Touch and Go T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: T. Bubb, C. Parks, 8/27/13
Page Views: 64 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 28, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a mellow and reasonable climb on-par with the quality of the neighboring routes on this ledge... once the dead bushes were cleaned out of it.

Step up one move and place a good medium/large stopper in a small crack on the left of the main crack. Stand up and start jamming above (2-3.5" cams), heading up the good handcrack to the big blocks that bulge at the top. Up top, step up and left and over the top. A good directional or anchor can be hand in a vertical crack behind the ledge which takes 2-2.5" cams.

Location

This route is on the right-most and shortest of 3 buttresses of the second tier.

Approach from the ledge below the second buttress and go up and right (5.6 scramble) to a second, slightly higher ledge. Little Black Box, Stand By, and Drunken Pilot (L->R) all start from this ledge. Drunken Pilot is the handcrack to the right of the split cracks of LBB and SB, with the remains of a small shrub 2 meters up. (This has been largely cleaned.)

Protection

A medium/large nut, followed by hand-sized cams. You can rap as for Little Black Box, or even belay there after a directional.

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