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Routes in The Ultimates

Brown Nosing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hitchhiker T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knot What It Seams T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lorax, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pumphouse Primer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Teddy Bear's Picnic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twist of Fate T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Ultimate Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ultimate Dirty Sanchez, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ultimate Finger Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ultimate Frisbee T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ultimate OW T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Ultimator, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
White Wedding T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Young Guns T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: R. Brown, D. Mabe & Rusty???
Page Views: 618 total, 11/month
Shared By: Robbie Brown on May 26, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

So here's the deal. I don't know if i am the first (kind of doubt it) but i am claiming it for now.
Starts with a thin hands corner (5.9) to a wide V-slot with a handcrack in the back. Optional belay (50ft ***) From here continue up burly V-Slot wide crack with handcrack in the back up to a slung tree. 125ft

Rap off upper section of tree down and to the left to keep ropes from getting stuck in the crack.

Location

40" to the left of White Wedding
Rap from tree with slings to the ground with 2 ropes

Protection

Doubles .5-4 with 3-4 #1-#3 C4's
Two Ropes

Photos

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Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Correct Zach, and I believe it has typo saying its left of UFC when on the drawing is left of WW. There was no fixed gear on that ledge but may have dissappeared many years ago. Id like to add some anchors at both belays at some point and even take it to the rim!?
Jan 22, 2016
In 'A better way to die', there is listed "unnamed 5.8 (T. Coats, J. Haisley Mid 1980's) 1 Pitch 60' handcrack" shown in the location of this climb. Maybe they just climbed the first part and bailed at the optional belay? Way to go digging out the obscurities guys. It also lists White Wedding as a 2 pitch 100' hand crack. Ha! Jan 22, 2016
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Robbie revived this hidden gem! Quality climbing for a long pitch, though would work very well to break it up into two short pitches, belaying at the comfy orange scoop ledge (seen in pic below at the treeline). The rock deteriorates a bit the higher you get, though the jams are secure. The tree we rapped from can be seen below too.

Brown Nosing shown below, about 40' left of White Wedding:
May 28, 2013