Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches
FA: Zach Harrison, Chris Kalman
Page Views: 453 total · 35/month
Shared By: Chris Kalman on Jun 30, 2020
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

As you drop into the canyon from Newman Park, it's hard not to stop and admire the beautiful lichen-streaked upper slab of the buttress just left of the UFC gully. Now you can climb it.

Unfortunately, the first pitch is somewhat forgettable; but the upper climbing is pretty darn good. And hey, it's a tower summit!

P1: 5.10. Press out a mantle into the giant cave, walk up and left, and climb choss to a bolt. Climb a little more choss into an open book corner. Climb the corner on pretty decent stone to anchors on a ledge. (doubles from blue metolius to #2, single 3, 4, and 5)

P2: 5.10+. traverse hard right all the way across the buttress clipping bolts and passing a couple of possible gear placements (finger sizes) on your way to a two bolt anchor on an airy perch next to the arete. (10 or so quickdraws and slings... mostly slings... singles from blue metolius to .5)

P3: Two options: 1.) 5.9. The original finish: climb up and left on enjoyable crack climbing (bring singles of BD .3 to #2) to the top, and belay off a tree (doublelength sling is long enough). 2. 5.11+. Climb the bolted arete to a finger crack finish (bring a few draws and singles from .3-.5) and belay at two glue-in bolts on a nice ledge.

*** P2 and P3 are meant to be linked if you do the arete finish. They can also be linked if you do the original finish; just sling out almost all the pro, and expect a little rope drag near the top.

*** From the top of either finish, top out and walk a few meters climber's left (south) til you find rap chains directly above the P1 anchors.

Location

Just left of the UFC corridor is an open area beneath a massive cave. This route starts there, and climbs the obvious corner (really the only climbable feature) on the left side of the cave.

The wall is east-facing; so afternoon shade.

Protection

Doubles from blue metolius to #2; single #3, 4, and 5; there's one spot down low where you may want a small nut but blue metolius also works. 6-8 slings; 4-6 draws.

A 60m rope MIGHT do it... but watch/knot the ends. Or just be safe and use a 70m.

Photos