Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Ultimates

Brown Nosing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hitchhiker T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knot What It Seams T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lorax, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pumphouse Primer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Teddy Bear's Picnic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twist of Fate T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Ultimate Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ultimate Dirty Sanchez, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ultimate Finger Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ultimate Frisbee T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ultimate OW T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Ultimator, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
White Wedding T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Young Guns T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jon Koehn and Will Cobb
Page Views: 1,171 total, 9/month
Shared By: Will Cobb on Aug 16, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Approach as per the Ultimate Finger Crack and Twist of Fate. UDS is located in the corridor to the right of UFC.

Pitch 1 - Climb a grey slab past one bolt to a stance below the "beak" roof. Load up the beak with blue and yellow Metolius or green and yellow Aliens. Use long runners on this gear. Layback around the roof and climb across "the beach" ledge to a tight corner. (Pulling the roof is no harder than 5.10, but the commitment level is high hence the 5.11- rating.) Climb the tight hands corner (5.10, harder than it looks...) to a two bolt belay atop a pillar.

Pitch 2 - Launch up the sweet, right curving, splitter thin hands/hands crack. (5.10) After about 50' pull onto a small ledge and make an awkward 5.9 move around a small bulge. Continue up the widening crack to a two bolt rap anchor in a small alcove.

One double rope rap from the alcove anchor will land you back at your packs.

Protection

1 set stoppers
2 x Blue Metolius (Green Alien)
2 x Yellow Metolius (Yellow Alien)
2 x .5 Camalot (Old Sizes)
2 x .75 Camalot (Old Sizes)
2 x 1 Camalot (Old Sizes)
2 x 1 Camalot (Old Sizes)
1 x 3 Camalot (Old Sizes)
1 x 3.5 Camalot (Old Sizes)
1 x 4 Camalot (Old Sizes)

Photos

Will Cobb
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Will Cobb   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Jon is refering to the wild, loose, dirty, rotten, and dangerous third pitch. It has infact only been climbed once and is certainly not recommended. However if this sounds fun...

Head up the wide crack out of the alcove. From here head up following the path of least resistance to the canyon's rim. This pitch is at least 5.10+ with little to no pro anywhere. (5.10+ X)

There isn't anything like this pitch anywhere, especially not in Boulder. Aug 23, 2006
Jonathan Koehn
  5.11a
Jonathan Koehn  
  5.11a
One omission Willy! You forgot to tell everyone about the "stellar" third 10+X pitch. Aug 23, 2006