Type: Trad, 215 ft (65 m), 3 pitches
FA: C. Thornley, 1996. FFA: D.Mabe, 2012
Page Views: 6,595 total · 36/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Apr 19, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


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Description

UPDATE 10/3/12:
“This coveted route was first aid climbed by Chris Thornley on rope-solo in 1996, just around the corner from the popular and excellent Ultimate Finger Crack. Since then, standing on top of the boulder, some have imagined, stared, and speculated the Fate of this route going free. Even fewer have ventured up with aiders, having realized the unforgiving fragility of thin Coconino cracks as a means to continue their sandy adventure for two more moderate free pitches. Speculation, rumor, and obscurity has left the fabled “5.13+(?)” first pitch to be neglected and almost forgotten for 15 years… even by Northern Arizona’s elite.

Here is a Twist. The striking first pitch goes free at a manageable 5.12 starting from the boulder. The lean/step across, along with the first gear placement, may be nearly-impossible for shorter climbers. Once you commit to actually starting, a brilliant crack-switch sequence unlocks the crux and leads to beautiful splitter fingers. I placed one bolt to protect the crux and preserve the soft and sandy seams, though attentive belay and careful gear placements above are necessary to keep you from hitting the boulder if you blow it. Difficulties ease above the leaning thin-hands offset, but the steepness and pump stay with you. Finish with twin cracks and a glorious handcrack bulge capped by a surprisingly tricky mantle onto the ledge. Lower 85’ from a pair of fixed biners on chains, or belay from bolted anchors on the ledge if continuing." -D.Mabe

Pitch 2. (5.10) Climb large hands, fist, and ow crack up a corner and flake to a stance with two bolts and chains (85').

Pitch 3. (5.8) Face climb up and right past two bolts to a groove and the sub-summit ledge (45').

Descend by rappelling the route starting from a tree that sits directly above the pitch 2 anchors. Three single rope raps get you down. OR take two ropes, top out, a short rap from a pine tree will get you to the bolted anchors atop UFC. A double rope rap from the top of UFC lands you about 25' away from Twist of Fate's start.

Location

Twist of Fate climbs up the face/arete just right of UFC's corridor. The start is marked by a large boulder at the base.

Protection

A couple of medium stoppers and micro-cams, doubles of Camalots #0.4 - #2, and maybe one #3, should provide enough of a selection for the first pitch. If continuing with the upper pitches, add at least (3)#3s, (2)#3.5s, and (1)#4. For full credit, don't even think about stick-clipping that bolt!

Photos