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Routes in The Ultimates

Brown Nosing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hitchhiker T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knot What It Seams T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lorax, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pumphouse Primer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Teddy Bear's Picnic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twist of Fate T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Ultimate Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ultimate Dirty Sanchez, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ultimate Finger Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ultimate Frisbee T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ultimate OW T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Ultimator, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
White Wedding T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Young Guns T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 165 ft, Grade II
FA: Tim Coats, Jim Haisley, John Mattson, 1985
Page Views: 6,750 total, 48/month
Shared By: markguycan on Apr 16, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

splitter finger tips to small hands up a steep smooth wall.

Location

in a side slot on the West side of the canyon upstream from Mexican Pocket & down from rope swing-swimming hole.

Protection

3-4 each of tcus, double #.75-#1, single #2 & #3camalot.
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Yup. Those bolts were poorly placed, and they will be moved 5 meters down Apr 23, 2017
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
 
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
 
LEFT ANCHOR BOLT SHOULD BE REPLACED

Looks great at first glance,but the rock around the bolt is eroding, the shaft is visible and starting to rust, and it moved a little when I pulled on it. I'm somewhat new to soft sandstone, being from the east coast, and it's PROBABLY okay, but I know bolts ain't supposed to move so I figured I'd make a comment. I don't have a bolt kit nor do I have the knowledge to place them, but maybe someone who does can go take a look.

Superb route; I'm recommending it to all my friends..

peace and climb safe! Apr 23, 2017
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Just in case this route is a little too splitter and good for you there's a bit of adventure to be had if you climb a 40' 2nd pitch(5.9 kind of soft and dirty, a new #5 would be useful) and then a crazy scramble including a tunnel through to the top of the formation, which is an independent summit but I hesitate to call it a tower. Also if you do this you can do the route with a 60m rope and then do 3 quick easy raps down Twist of Fate. Jul 13, 2015
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
PG13 could have been for the hanging tree that was above the route.. which is there no more, last I heard. Aug 6, 2013
Eric D
Gnarnia
Eric D   Gnarnia
Agreed. Not PG-13 or even PG. Aug 5, 2013
JMo
Tucson, AZ
  5.11
JMo   Tucson, AZ
  5.11
1- if you buy an 80 just for this line, it will be well spent. the middle mark is almost exactly at the anchors.

2- if a 40 meter pitch goes from splitter fingers to a rest ledge, to splitter ring locks to a little roof, past the roof on bomber locks & great feet, to 70 MORE feet of in-your-face crack with lots of hands and a couple pods (whew!), is it the greatest single sandstone pitch in NAZ?

3- triples from blue metolious to gold camalots, with an extra one or even two .75/black metolious pieces if you want to sew it up. runners on the first 2-4 pieces after the ringlocks above the roof. Jul 6, 2013
Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
 
not PG-13, or PG. The gear is about as good as it gets. Sep 10, 2012
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
GPS: 35.035693,-111.715664 Jul 5, 2011
chuck claude
Flagstaff, Az
5.11
chuck claude   Flagstaff, Az
5.11
how can this be PG13? The gear is about as good as its going to get. Great climbing but sort of isolated. Feb 3, 2010
tcskis  
First ascent- Tim Coats/Jim Haisley/John Mattson Feb 1, 2010
I will never forgive Tim for stealing this route.
I found it 1982, just before moving to Tucson.

I'm kidding (sort of.)

This is a beautiful area and one amazing crack. Aug 14, 2008
FA: Tim Coats & John Mattson, 1985. Oct 27, 2007
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
I agree that the pro is great the whole way. Triples of yellow TCUs through 0.75 Camelot then double #2 Camelot and one #3 Camelot along with singles of small TCUs should sew it up fine. This is one of the finest cracks of its grade anywhere. Jun 24, 2007
Seth Dyer
  5.11
Seth Dyer  
  5.11
This classic has great pro all the way.... I'd hesitate to give it a PG13 rating. Don't be shy, git out there and git on it!!! Dec 15, 2006