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Routes in The Ultimates

Brown Nosing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hitchhiker T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knot What It Seams T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lorax, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pumphouse Primer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Teddy Bear's Picnic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twist of Fate T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Ultimate Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ultimate Dirty Sanchez, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ultimate Finger Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ultimate Frisbee T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ultimate OW T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Ultimator, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
White Wedding T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Young Guns T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: D.Mabe, R.Brown, and K.Kent
Page Views: 1,218 total, 22/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on May 27, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This short route has excellent climbing at a surprisingly moderate grade, featuring great pro, secure jams, wild coconino face features, and foot holds; all in under 80 feet. Though short, it is nearly a four star classic for the area and grade.

A steep start leads to a finger crack and stem-box. Work up through a flare and right into a right-facing corner and continue on amazing finger locks and varied jams to a two bolt rap anchor on a ledge.

Location

Bushwack up the hill to the right of the base of White Wedding. You can see the upper dihedral above the trees from the creek bed.

Protection

cams C4: #0.3 to #3 with an extra of #0.4-#1 should be plenty. Medium and large stoppers also work well.

Photos

manuel rangel
Arizona
 
manuel rangel   Arizona
 
Love this route, just wish it was longer. Great protection throughout. Good rock and solid jams make this a classic. Jul 1, 2013