Elevation: 6,198 ft
GPS: 35.035, -111.716 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 17,217 total · 1,015/month
Shared By: Chris Kalman on May 30, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

Description

Because the majority of the climbs in Pumphouse Wash are found within the vicinity of an enormous oxbow in the canyon, East/West side can often feel like North/South side. But for the sake of simplicity, think of the canyon in terms of East and West.

If you come in from Newman Park, you come in on the East side, and you will be looking directly at the three beautiful buttresses of the Ultimate Finger Crack area on the West side.

Popular routes on the West Side include Pumphouse Primer, the Ultimatum, White Wedding... and the excellent Ultimate Finger Crack, and Twist of Fate.

The routes around the Ultimate Finger Crack area face mostly north, and have shade most of the day. The routes further down-canyon face southwest and receive much more sun.

Getting There

There are two access points for the climbing in Pumphouse Wash off of 89a. One is at the bottom of the switchbacks, the other is by parking at the start of 237 up on the rim and hiking down into the canyon. Using a map app like Avenza may help for the latter, but basically just go downhill until you're in there.

The easiest access to either side of Pumphouse Wash is via Newman Park road, off of I-17.

This overview photo from Darren Mabe shows the beta for that access.



Once in Pumphouse Wash proper, it is easy to cross from one side of the canyon to the other at most points. Occasionally you may need to walk up or down stream a little to find a safe crossing.

28 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Ultimates West Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Ultimates West

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Young Guns
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 13
Pumphouse Primer
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
 11
White Wedding
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 41
Ultimate Finger Crack
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
The Ultimatum
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 5
Ultimate Bag Of Tricks
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 4
Metal Detector
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 12
Ultimarete
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 14
Lil' Smokie's First Toke
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Cry Havoc
Trad 3 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Pink Cloud
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
Lil' Smokie's Wild Ride
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
 10
Twist of Fate
Trad 3 pitches
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 3
Lil' Slopie
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 5
Lil' Smokie Shoots for the Moon
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Young Guns
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Pumphouse Primer
 13
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
White Wedding
 11
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad 2 pitches
Ultimate Finger Crack
 41
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
The Ultimatum
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 2 pitches
Ultimate Bag Of Tricks
 5
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Metal Detector
 4
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Ultimarete
 12
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Lil' Smokie's First Toke
 14
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Cry Havoc
 3
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 3 pitches
Pink Cloud
 3
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Lil' Smokie's Wild Ride
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Twist of Fate
 10
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Lil' Slopie
 3
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Lil' Smokie Shoots for the…
 5
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Ultimates West »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments