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Ultimates West Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Ultimates West

L › R R › L A › Z

	After the Gold Rush T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Brown Nosing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Crustifarian, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Cry Havoc T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Lil' Slopie S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Lil' Smokie Goes All The Way S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Lil' Smokie Shoots for the Moon S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Lil' Smokie's First Crush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Lil' Smokie's First Toke S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Lil' Smokie's Wild Ride T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Lizard Howler Break Dance, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Metal Detector S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Pink Cloud S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Pumphouse Primer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Sandy Lou Who T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Shut Out the World S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Twist of Fate T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Ultimarete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Ultimate Bag Of Tricks T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Ultimate Dirty Sanchez, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Ultimate Finger Crack T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Ultimate Fist Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Ultimate Lube Job T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ultimate Traverse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Ultimatum, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	White Wedding T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
	You'll Never Be a Blacksmith With Flippers Like Those T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Young Guns T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	6,198 ft
GPS:	35.03512, -111.71591 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Chris Kalman on May 30, 2020 · Updates
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Description

Because the majority of the climbs in Pumphouse Wash are found within the vicinity of an enormous oxbow in the canyon, East/West side can often feel like North/South side. But for the sake of simplicity, think of the canyon in terms of East and West.

If you come in from Newman Park, you come in on the East side, and you will be looking directly at the three beautiful buttresses of the Ultimate Finger Crack area on the West side.

Popular routes on the West Side include Pumphouse Primer, the Ultimatum, White Wedding... and the excellent Ultimate Finger Crack, and Twist of Fate.

The routes around the Ultimate Finger Crack area face mostly north, and have shade most of the day. The routes further down-canyon face southwest and receive much more sun.

Getting There

There are two access points for the climbing in Pumphouse Wash off of 89a. One is at the bottom of the switchbacks, the other is by parking at the start of 237 up on the rim and hiking down into the canyon. Using a map app like Avenza may help for the latter, but basically just go downhill until you're in there.

The easiest access to either side of Pumphouse Wash is via Newman Park road, off of I-17.

This overview photo from Darren Mabe shows the beta for that access.

Once in Pumphouse Wash proper, it is easy to cross from one side of the canyon to the other at most points. Occasionally you may need to walk up or down stream a little to find a safe crossing.

28 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ultimates West

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 15 ● Young Guns Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 10 ● Ultimate Lube Job Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 12 ● Pumphouse Primer Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 7 ● The Crustifarian Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R 10 ● White Wedding Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 7 ● The Ultimatum Trad 2 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a 53 ● Ultimate Finger Crack Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 8 ● Ultimate Bag Of Tricks Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 5 ● Metal Detector Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 22 ● Ultimarete Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 7 ● Pink Cloud Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 19 ● Lil' Smokie's First Toke Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 10 ● Twist of Fate Trad 3 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 6 ● Lil' Smokie's Wild Ride Trad
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c 8 ● Lil' Smokie Shoots for the Moon Sport