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Ultimates West Rock Climbing
Routes in Ultimates West
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After the Gold Rush T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Brown Nosing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crustifarian, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Cry Havoc T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lil' Slopie S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Lil' Smokie Goes All The Way S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Lil' Smokie Shoots for the Moon S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Lil' Smokie's First Crush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lil' Smokie's First Toke S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lil' Smokie's Wild Ride T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Lizard Howler Break Dance, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Metal Detector S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pink Cloud S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pumphouse Primer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sandy Lou Who T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shut Out the World S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Twist of Fate T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Ultimarete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ultimate Bag Of Tricks T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Ultimate Dirty Sanchez, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ultimate Finger Crack T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ultimate Fist Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ultimate Lube Job T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ultimate Traverse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ultimatum, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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White Wedding T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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You'll Never Be a Blacksmith With Flippers Like Those T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Young Guns T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 6,198 ft | 1,889 m |
| GPS: |
35.03512, -111.71591 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 25,446 total · 435/month | |
| Shared By: | Chris Kalman on May 30, 2020 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Because the majority of the climbs in Pumphouse Wash are found within the vicinity of an enormous oxbow in the canyon, East/West side can often feel like North/South side. But for the sake of simplicity, think of the canyon in terms of East and West.
If you come in from Newman Park, you come in on the East side, and you will be looking directly at the three beautiful buttresses of the Ultimate Finger Crack area on the West side.
Popular routes on the West Side include Pumphouse Primer, the Ultimatum, White Wedding... and the excellent Ultimate Finger Crack, and Twist of Fate.
The routes around the Ultimate Finger Crack area face mostly north, and have shade most of the day. The routes further down-canyon face southwest and receive much more sun.
If you come in from Newman Park, you come in on the East side, and you will be looking directly at the three beautiful buttresses of the Ultimate Finger Crack area on the West side.
Popular routes on the West Side include Pumphouse Primer, the Ultimatum, White Wedding... and the excellent Ultimate Finger Crack, and Twist of Fate.
The routes around the Ultimate Finger Crack area face mostly north, and have shade most of the day. The routes further down-canyon face southwest and receive much more sun.
Getting There
There are two access points for the climbing in Pumphouse Wash off of 89a. One is at the bottom of the switchbacks, the other is by parking at the start of 237 up on the rim and hiking down into the canyon. Using a map app like Avenza may help for the latter, but basically just go downhill until you're in there.
The easiest access to either side of Pumphouse Wash is via Newman Park road, off of I-17.
This overview photo from Darren Mabe shows the beta for that access.
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Once in Pumphouse Wash proper, it is easy to cross from one side of the canyon to the other at most points. Occasionally you may need to walk up or down stream a little to find a safe crossing.
The easiest access to either side of Pumphouse Wash is via Newman Park road, off of I-17.
This overview photo from Darren Mabe shows the beta for that access.
Once in Pumphouse Wash proper, it is easy to cross from one side of the canyon to the other at most points. Occasionally you may need to walk up or down stream a little to find a safe crossing.
Classic Climbing Routes at Ultimates West
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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All Photos Within Ultimates West
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